Autochtona 2018 wine competition, Bolzano

Autochtona 2018 wine competition, Bolzano

Autochtona is an annual wine competition held in Bolzano, in the far north of Italy. What makes it unique is that entries can be from wines made only with Italy’s Authoctonous grape varieties. Autochtonous means only those varieties that originate, as far as is known, within Italy itself. You won’t find the international varieties or any other grape varieties with foreign origins.

Instead, Autochtona is a showcase for the wealth of purely Italian grapes that still survive and sometimes thrive. Such diversity is an Italian treasure house, of genetics but also of flavours, places and history. Many are unfamiliar rare-breeds, still at risk of extinction. Others got lost in blends. Some, due to the dedication of winegrowers, now have small, dedicated DOC’s. A few, like Sangiovese, Barbera or Nebbiolo, became world famous.

All of them form part of our defence against homogeneity and the risk of everything tasting the same. And, in these days of climate change, some will yet have an important part to play.

A journey of discovery

Consequently, there is a journey of discovery. 377 make the official catalogue, but there may yet be many more still languishing in obscurity.  I love Italy’s wealth of Autochtonous grapes; their individuality, their stories, and above all, what they can bring to the table. Autochtonous means difference. It’s not about novelty value or simply conservation. Instead, in the right hands, autochtonous wines can be brilliant in their own right.

What better way to find out than in competition? Hence Autochtona brings together for two days over 100 winegrowers from all over Italy. There were over 300 wines to try.

This year I was delighted to join the competition judging panel of nine. The group was headed up by Pierluigi Gorgoni, the curator of the event. The standards were gratifyingly high. Here, in short, are this year’s winners, in six categories:

Autochtona 2018 Banner

The winners:

Autochtona 2018 Winners

Best Red Wine:

Valletta, Barbera d’Alba DOC, 2016. Claudio Alario, Piemonte

Barbera is Italy’s third most planted red grape. This delicious example from 60-year-old vines is given 20 months in French barriques. Big, brooding, velvety. Violet-scented, blackberry and plum fruit. Refined, elegant and sophisticated wine.

Best White Wine:

Poggio dello Scagno, Timorasso IGT, 2016. La Vecchia Posta, Colli Tortonesi, Piemonte

Timorasso (Derthona). Timorasso is a white grape rescued from the brink of extinction. It was difficult to cultivate in previous times and hence rarely replanted after the phylloxera devastation. Thankfully it’s enjoying a deserved renaissance, primarily in the Colli Tortonesi. A little like Riesling in character. It’s intense, highly aromatic, with mineral, citrus fruit with herbal notes. Apricot, nuts and a little ginger on the finish. Will age for years.

Best Sparkling Wine:

Lambrusco di Sorbara, CDV Brutrosso Spumante Brut Método Classico DOC, 2016. Cantina Della Volta, Emilia-Romagna

Lambrusco Sorbara, given nine months on the lees. Brilliant ruby red, good mousse and small bubbles. Brick red and thoroughly dry. Raspberry and strawberry on nose and palate. Finishes cleanly, a classic Lambrusco that helps restore Lambrusco’s reputation as a great wine.

Presenting the Best Sparkling Wine Award to Ale Franchescini of Cantina Della Volta

 

Location

Fiera Bolzano (Messe Bozen)
Piazza Fiera, 1,
39100 Bolzano
Alto Adige (Südtirol)
Italy

For more on the wines of the Alto Adige see here and here