Le Mortelle, a rising star in the Maremma

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Antinori Le Mortelle

Le Mortelle, a rising star in the Maremma Le Mortelle is one of Antinori’s more recent ventures, a new organic wine estate created in Tuscany’s coastal Maremma. Here’s a progress report on this rising star. The Antinori family has been in the wine business for over six hundred years, documenting this back to 1385, across 26 generations. Has anyone done …

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Wine of the Year 2017 – Gini Salvarenza

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Gini Pricelist

Wine of the Year 2017 – Gini Salvarenza – Soave’s Montrachet My Wine of the Year 2017 is  Gini Salvarenza, Vecchie Vigne, Soave Classico, DOC 2014 13.5% Fanfare, please! Introducing Gini The Gini family have been winegrowers at Monteforte d’Alpone in Soave since 1600. These days, brothers Sandro and Claudio Gini run their 55-hectare estate. They own some of the best …

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Book Review: Wine Revolution by Jane Anson

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Wine Revolution Jane Anson

Book Review: Wine Revolution by Jane Anson Wine Revolution by Jane Anson contains “The World’s Best Organic, Biodynamic and Natural wines”.  When I started to focus on this subject a decade and more ago, such wines were dismissed by conventional wisdom. According to this, they employed daft doctrines. Furthermore, they were only from a handful of winegrowers that had lost …

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A fabulous visit to Domaine Orenga de Gaffory

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The Patrimonio terroir, Orenga de Gaffory

A fabulous visit to Domaine Orenga de Gaffory Domaine Orenga de Gaffory covers 56 hectares in the appellation of Patrimonio in northern Corsica. This family-owned wine estate is also undergoing organic conversion. It owns many small plots in five different communes. It means they have a broad range of red, rosé and white AOC Patrimonio wines. They also make the nearby …

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Etna terroir, the Burgundy of the Mediterranean – the Lava Lout Returns, Part 2 of 2

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Etna terroir

Etna terroir, the Burgundy of the Mediterranean – the Lava Lout Returns, Part 2 of 2 The Etna Terroir Part 1 of this article described how a Sicilian volcano bestows natural gifts to create the Etna terroir. But Etna isn’t one terroir; there are many variations. Welcome to the Burgundy of the Mediterranean. Etna’s volcanic soils are free draining, and low …

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Une Table Corse – authentic eating in Corsica

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Ferme de Campo di Monte - Une Table Corse

Une Table Corse – authentic eating in Corsica Une Table Corse is a restaurant perhaps like no other. In an ancient and isolated farmhouse, Pauline Julliard, its owner, provides one of the island’s most fabled dining experiences. You’ll eat authentic Corsican cuisine in small converted dining rooms. Pauline learned all the recipes from her mother and grandmother. She is now …

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Losing My Extra-Virginity in Corsica: Oltremonti Olive Oil

Paul Howard Articles, Blog, Food & Restaurant Reviews, France, Organic 2 Comments

Moulin Oltremonti Corsica EVOO

Losing My Extra-Virginity in Corsica: Oltremonti Olive Oil I love Extra-Virgin Olive Oil, (or EVOO for short). However, I knew little about making it and less about how to taste it. Losing my Extra-Virginity was overdue. Hence I visited Domaine Oltremonti recently. Oltremonti is near Bastia, in northern Corsica, between the wild high Maquis and the coast. The Domaine has 35 …

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Campo alle Comete, Stupore. UK Exclusive!

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Campo alle Comete Stupore Bolgheri Rosso DOC 2015

Campo alle Comete, Stupore. UK Exclusive! The wines of the Bolgheri region, down on the Tuscan coast, excite me in a way few others can. Bolgheri has become a magnet for wine investment, and many famous Italian wine producers have expanded into the area. Bolgheri is primarily Bordeaux-blend land, where the Reds achieve a rare intensity and Sangiovese plays only …

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Chateau Musar, Legend of Lebanon

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Chateau Musar Red, Lebanon

Chateau Musar, Legend of Lebanon They say that any self-respecting wine writer should have an article on Chateau Musar, the legendary wine from Lebanon. So here’s mine. Lebanon Winemaking in Lebanon possibly started as far back as 7,000 BC, in the Biblical countries of Canaan and Phoenicia, lands of milk and honey. Phoenicians traded Lebanese wines around the Mediterranean, and then …

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I Veroni Chianti Rùfina Riserva – verticale

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I Veroni Chianti Rufina Riserva DOCG

I Veroni Chianti Rùfina Riserva – verticale Chianti has seven subzones besides Chianti Classico, the best-known region. Chianti Rùfina, (pronounced, in my best London accent,  Roo-fina) is the best of these. It’s a small enclave of 1,000 hectares at most and probably accounts for only about 3% of all Chianti production. Perhaps it’s the only Chianti subzone to rival Classico …

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