Kotsifali, an old red grape variety from Lyrarakis in Crete Crete is by far the largest Greek Island, measuring roughly 260 km from west to east and 60 km north to south. It has no shortage of ancient native white and red grape varieties. One of those reds is the subject of this article, known as Kotsifali. Like the other …
Wines From Spain 2025. Five Personal Favourites
Wines From Spain 2025. Five Personal Favourites One of the highlights of my wine year is always the annual Wines From Spain trade tasting, which I look forward to for weeks beforehand. That’s not least because they always ensure they visit the north of England in addition to exhibiting in London. This year, the northern leg of Wines From Spain …
Verdeca – Time for a Renaissance
Verdeca – Time for a Renaissance Once upon a time, Verdeca was widely planted in Puglia, its homeland. If Puglia is the boot of Italy, then we are far down at its heel. Verdeca is an autochthonous white grape variety that grows mainly in the central provinces of Bari and Taranto but also further south in Brindisi and Lecce1. Unfortunately, …
Not The Usual Suspects – Alternative Grape Varieties
Not The Usual Suspects – Alternative Grape Varieties Are you tired of Pinot Grigio or cheesed off with Cabernet? Do you find Merlot mundane, or that Sauvignon isn’t your scene? In which case, why not broaden your vinous horizons? But wait – many wines featured on these pages are not these usual suspects. Estimates say that up to 10,000 different …
Bodegas Tobía – Cuvée Blanco Rioja
Bodegas Tobía – Cuvée Blanco Rioja Last year, I tried a glass of Rioja Cuvée Blanco from Bodegas Tobía, a producer then unknown to me. As there are 66,902 hectares of vines and 748 producers in Rioja selling around 325 million bottles annually in many diverse styles, perhaps you’ll forgive me for not knowing all of them.1 Meanwhile, this glass …
For Fine Dining Value, Go Back to College
For Fine Dining Value, Go Back To College Last year, I discovered that my local college in Kendal has an excellent training restaurant as part of its Hospitality and Catering department. And it’s open to the public. Given the hospitality industry’s importance to the UK economy and the need to underpin this with professional training, this should have come as …
Cadgal and Moscato d’Asti DOCG
Cadgal and Moscato d’Asti DOCG Moscato d’Asti DOCG covers a vast area of some 10,000 ha in Piemonte, spreading across the historic regions of Langhe, Monferrato and Roero. It produces and sells about 36 million bottles yearly, 90% of which are exports. That’s a lot of wine, yet it remains less well-known in the UK, dwarfed by the ubiquitous Prosecco1. …
Zymology, imagine our world without fermentation
Zymology, imagine our world without fermentation. Our modern civilisation relies on technology. Who could imagine our world without fire, the wheel, or books? More recently, the internal combustion engine, aeroplanes, and mobile internet? In the future, AI looms. All are milestones in human ingenuity; where would we be without them? However, in this article, I would like to ask you …
What is terroir and does it matter?
What is terroir, and does it matter? Terroir is a French word without a simple English translation. The Oxford Companion to Wine devotes a couple of pages to the subject. However, my favourite explanation is much more succinct. It comes from literature: “For nitrates are not the land, nor phosphates and the length of fibre in the cotton is not the …
Maculan – Three Red Wines from Breganze in the Veneto
Maculan – Three Red Wines from Breganze in the Veneto The Veneto in North Eastern Italy is one of the powerhouses of Italian wine. After all, this region has been making wine for three or more millennia. Today, it contains many famous appellations, such as Valpolicella and Soave, and even more famous wines, such as Amarone, Prosecco and Pinot Grigio. …










