Greatest Hits – A Case for Christmas 2024

Greatest Hits – A Case for Christmas 2024

This year, I’m ringing the changes for the Case for Christmas 2024 article. This time, it’s a Greatest Hits package. This features a dozen wines selected from all my previous annual Christmas wine recommendations. They are twelve wines that stand the test of time and fully deserve highlighting again. Such a listicle has not appeared here before.

Isn’t Christmas a time for repackaging? Think of all those classic TV specials and favourite films (White Christmas, It’s A Wonderful Life and Home Alone, just for starters). Then, those Greatest Hits albums by your favourite musician or band are perennial stocking fillers.

On the radio, wall-to-wall Christmas songs are re-released every year. Wizzard’s I Wish It Could Be Christmas Everyday and the Pogue’s Fairytale of New York are personal peerless picks. I’m also old enough to remember avidly reading annuals like the Beano, the Dandy, and the Eagle. Some of us even reuse last year’s wrapping paper. And I haven’t even mentioned Boxing Day leftovers yet.

However, one of the important things about any Christmas list is the ability of the wines to match with different Yuletide foods and occasions. That stipulation is unchanged.

Greatest Hits

Here are my Greatest Hits 2024 – a dozen delights, the best selection from Yuletide Hits for Christmases past. Remastered (updated with current vintage, prices/stockists, and alcohol).  And remixed with new information and pictures, too. However, there are no substandard extra tracks to get in the way. All Killer, No Filler, as some might say. Some of these wines might be familiar to you already, but I hope more will be by the end of the festive period.

There are two sparkling wines, three whites, two rosé, three reds, and two sweet wines. Prices range from £9.00 to £51.00, so there’s something here for everybody.

Sparkling Greatest Hits

Oxney Organic Estate,  Classic Brut,  East  Sussex,  UK.  2018.  12%

Classic Brut is a blend of 45% Pinot Meunier, 35% Pinot Noir and 20% Chardonnay from the 2018 harvest. The grapes are grown organically near Rye in East Sussex, with Oxney being the most extensive organic wine estate in the UK and certified by the Soil Association.

Their sparkling winemaking employs the Classic Method. The grapes mostly undergo the first fermentation in stainless steel, apart from a small amount fermented in old French barrels. All the wines then undergo a malolactic fermentation, which softens the acidity. Once blended, the second fermentation and maturation in the bottle take 36 months before disgorgement.

A golden colour has developed, while the nose offers stone fruit and white flowers. Given the malolactic and barrel work, this creamy wine retains tension from the acidity together with mineral sensations. Stone fruit again on the palate, with baked apple to the fore. There are plenty of accompanying aromas and flavours of brioche and pastry.

Proof that Britain can do organic wine brilliantly even in our ever more capricious climate – if you have the sites, the skills and the courage. Classic is a brilliant aperitive but it will match seafood, smoked salmon, or gravadlax. Do keep some back for the cheeseboard!

Vintage Roots  £35.00

Ferghettina Rosé Brut,  Franciacorta DOCG,  Lombardy,  Italy.  2020.  12.5%

The hugely experienced Roberto Gatti created the Ferghettina estate in Franciacorta in 1991. While Ferghettina is a Chardonnay-dominated house, their Rosé 2020 is (unlike many of their peers) made from 100% Pinot Nero and uses only free-run juice. Made by the Classic Method, with 36 months on the lees and just a 4g/l dosage, it comes in a dry Brut style.

Exquisite strawberry and raspberry-scented fruit and lovely fresh acidity make this a superb foil for antipasti, cold meats or even light desserts like meringués. Ferghettina is also proud of its patented reinforced square bottles, claiming they improve the elegance of the wine. The bottles are certainly easier to store on their sides in the cellar. Regardless, this distinctive bottle is no heavier than usual and will grace any table.

Momentum Wines £32.95

 

 

 

White Greatest Hits

Azienda Agricola Cignoli Fabrizio,  Gabé,  IGP Pavia Bianco,  Oltrepò Pavese,  Lombardy,  Italy,  2023.  12%

Oltrepò Pavese is a historic Italian wine region in southern Lombardy, south of Pavia. Its wines deserve to be better known because they offer a personality and terroir all their own. There are styles of wines here that you won’t find anywhere else.

Gabé is an excellent example of this. The name is a local Pavian dialect word for blend. It’s made from Sauvignon Blanc leavened with Riesling Italico, an unusual but delightful combo (80/20 in this vintage) that sees no oak. Why don’t more winegrowers try this combination?

This is a peachily aromatic and fruity dry white wine. The peach fruit is accompanied by softened acidity and moderate alcohol, all in balance, with a satisfyingly long finish. And while it’s made for immediate drinking, I’m keeping a couple of bottles back because this could develop over a couple of years.

Try it as aperitivo, or with prawns or crab. Alternatively, try mild Thai dishes based on coconut milk and peanuts if you become bored with the Christmas diet. Here’s an easy Thai recipe from Saturday Kitchen.

Provino, £14.50

 

Tiefenbrunner,  Müller-Thurgau,  Feldmarschall von Fenner zu Fennberg,  Alto Adige/Südtirol DOC,  Italy.  2020.  13.5%

Tiefenbrunner is in the far north of Alpine Italy, in the Alto Adige at Kurtatsch. They are sustainably certified by SQNPI and employ hydro and solar power, generating enough for their community.

Their Feldmarschall Cru is one of the most distinctive wines in the Alto Adige. Furthermore, I’ll wager that it’s the best Müller-Thurgau varietal wine in the world! Those who scoff at M-Ts lack of ‘nobility’ (it’s a crossing of Riesling and Madeleine Royale that was a main ingredient in Leibfraumich) have never tried this.

Three hectares of old M-T vines grow at 1,000 metres at Fennberg, perhaps the highest vineyards in Europe, yet the low-yield grapes are super-ripe, fermented and matured in a combination of wood and concrete.  Greenish colour. Initially, flint, apricots and white pepper aromas. As it opens up, apples, peaches and jasmine appear. With nerve and mineral tension, it has all the elegance you could ever want. Colossal length, finishing dry with a hint of nutmeg. It now comes screwcapped.

Spell-binding and glorious, perfect with all types of seafood, including oysters.

Lay & Wheeler, £39.21

 

Coffele,  Castel Cerino,  Soave Classico DOC,  Veneto,  Italy.  2023.  12%

Soave is arguably Italy’s most famous white wine region. Coffele’s organic Castel Cerino Soave Classico is made only with hand-harvested Garganega grapes, without any Trebbiano di Soave or oak treatments; see my review here.

I never tire of this wine from one of Soave’s top producers. It’s superb value and a classic example, and now it comes under screwcap.

Pale yellow with green hints, the aromas are fresh and welcoming. Blossoms, minerals, and apples are to the fore. Then, there’s a good balance in the glass, a moderate alcohol level and soft acidity. There’s finesse before a clean, refreshing almond finish. This 2023 vintage is drinking now but will develop over the next three years.

Try it with scallops and green salads. Or how about Crudités and dips?

The Wine Society  £10.95

 

 

Rosé Greatest Hits

Santa Venere,  Cirò Rosato, Cirò DOC,  Calabria,  Italy.  2023.  12.5%

I’m a big fan of the wines made by Santa Venere, an organic mixed farm in Calabria’s Cirò DOC. The Scala family have 160 hectares, 25 of which are vineyards. Made from the red Gaglioppo grape variety native to Calabria, this Rosato is made by saignée, leaving the juice on the skins for just one hour before fermentation, and then maturing it for 5 months in stainless steel and 2 months in the bottle.

It is boudoir-pink, with aromas of cherries and oranges. The dry palate offers bold cherry-led red berry flavours with a savoury undertow, all bound in a refreshing citrus acidity that brings you back for more. A true expression of Italy’s toe!

Try it with game birds, sausages, or perfect with Boxing Day cold cuts and leftovers, including a personal favourite, “bubble and squeak.”

 

The Wine Society, £11.50

 

 

Domaine des Tourelles,  Rosé,  Bekaa Valley,  Lebanon.  2022.  13%

Lebanon is a country known for its French grapes and wine-growing traditions. Domaine des Tourelles is one of Lebanon’s best wineries; you can read all about it here.

Hence, a Lebanese rosé containing 40% Cinsault and 30% Syrah isn’t unusual, but including 30% Spanish Tempranillo in the blend certainly is! These vines grow at over 1,000 metres of altitude in the western Bekaa Valley, so this is an organic rosé to break preconceptions. As their website states, “Peace Grows Here”.

A deep reddish-pink has zippy acidity, a mass of strawberry and apple fruit, a moreish savoury edge, and a black pepper finish. And while you may rightly imagine it being right at home with a summer BBQ, it’s surprisingly suited to winter thanks to a rare richness and depth. Classic food pairings are Middle Eastern dishes, but this is a rosé that will embrace a Honey-Glazed Ham in style.

Widely available, including Fintry Wines, £13.25

 

Red Greatest Hits

Antonella Corda,  Cannonau di Sardegna DOC,  Sardinia,  Italy.  2022. 14.5%

Cannonau is the red signature grape of Sardegna, grown all over the island. It’s a form of Grenache Noir, though distinctive from both French and Spanish examples.

This example is 100% Cannonau, and fermentation and ageing are mainly in stainless steel. However, a portion matures in untoasted oak barriques, adding a silky texture without any overt wood flavours.  A light brick-red colour, there are pepper and rose aromatics mixed in with red cherry and raspberry fruit. Meanwhile, the tannins are exceptionally fine, balanced by fresh acidity and with a long underbrush and almond finale.

With a rare poise and elegance, it will stand up to any traditional Christmas fare.

In short, this is one of the most exciting expressions of Cannonau there is. It’s ready to drink now or will last for years. Buy all you can carry.  Tre Bicchieri? Of course. An article about it is here.

Valvona and Crolla,  £28.50

Palladino, Biferno Rosso Riserva DOC, Molise,  Italy.  2019.  13.5%

Molise is the youngest of Italy’s twenty regions and one of the least well-known. It’s on the Adriatic coast, sandwiched between Abruzzo and Puglia. The Molise wines are plentiful but even more obscure, yet there are an increasing number of gems. This makes it possible to find excellent terroir-based wines that sell for a song. And so it is with this excellent Biferno Rosso Riserva DOC, made by Camilio de Lellis and labelled Palladino.

This example is a typical traditional blend, being 70% Montepulciano, with 15% Aglianico. The 15% white Trebbiano Toscano is no longer stated on the label but I think it’s still included, as it keeps things fresh and helps manage the alcohol. Being a Riserva, this must have at least three years of ageing, firstly 18 months in large old oak barrels and then after blending, 18 months in stainless steel.  Velvety, with plum and herb aromatics. Damson on the palate and a little bacon, smoke, and leather in the background. A sophisticated and complex wine that’s, frankly, stupidly outstanding value, combining aged mellowness with a lightness of touch. A perennial favourite anytime that excels with the Christmas table.

The Wine Society, £9.50

 

 

Tenuta di Ghizzano,  Nambrot,  IGP Costa Toscana,  Tuscany,  Italy.  2018.  14 %

Nambrot, from the Demeter-certified biodynamic Tenuta di Ghizzano, is an irresistible proposition for any special occasion. This Pisan gem is a Bordeaux blend of 60% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Franc, and 20% Petit Verdot. The foot-trodden grapes ferment in wood and concrete vats. Maturation takes 18 months in 225-litre French oak barrels, of which 30% are new. It then spends another 10 months in the bottle before release.

Nambrot is a young wine of brooding intensity and longevity, so decant it for a least an hour first. It’ll also take ten minutes for the wine to open up in the glass. An attractive cedar note on the nose, plus violets and tobacco. The palate shows brown spices underpinning damsons and cherries. A black olive note alongside a graphite/pencil minerality adds complexity before a rich finish

Pisa is a less well-known wine area in Tuscany, but Nambrot easily holds its own against rivals from the fashionable Bolgheri and Chianti Classico areas of Tuscany.

As for food, choose meats that the tannins can work on, such as steak, beef, lamb or game. It makes some centrepiece for Christmas Day!

WoodWinters, £51.00

 

 

Sweet Greatest Hits

Maculan.  Torcolato Dolce,  Breganze DOC,  Veneto,  Italy.  2021. 13.5%

Maculan is probably most famous for this wine, Torcolato, a sweet wine unique to Breganze, north of Vicenza, made with the local white Vespaiola grape. When ripe, this grape variety has such sweetness that they are a magnet for wasps. Hence, the name Vespa(iola).

The ripe grapes also retain high acidity, making them ideal for creating balanced, sweet wines that finish cleanly rather than cloyingly. After picking, the grape bunches are air-dried in lofts, hanging down from rafters on twisted strings (called Torcolare) for four months. That concentrates the sugar and acidity even more and adds new complex flavours. After the fermentation, the wine matures in French oak barriques (30% new) for 12 months.

A brilliant golden colour, it’s also highly aromatic, where honey, honeysuckle and vanilla compete for attention. The wine is lush in the mouth, but the high acidity perfectly balances the sweetness, leaving it clean-finishing. Seville oranges, nuts, figs, apricots, and custard are mixed into the honeyed sweetness.

This world-class sweet wine is brilliant with pastries, chocolate, and caramel desserts; think Millionaire’s Shortbread. Ripe old cheeses (including blue), too.

My feature article on Maculan is published here.

Half bottles (375 ml) are at  Hay Wines, £30.49

 

Michele Chiarlo,  Nivole,  Moscato d’Asti DOCG,  Langhe,  Piemonte,  Italy.  2023.  5%

Moscato d’Asti has long been one of my favourite ways to end a meal. It’s light and frothy and an excellent palate cleanser. It’s gently sweet and fleshy, with elderflower, orange peel and apricots lining up.

Gentle fizz, too – just 1.5 atmospheres created by the Charmat/Martinotti method, which perfectly suits the sweet and aromatic Moscato Bianco grape, aka Muscat à Petits Grains. Also, this wine only has 5% alcohol, which is almost weightless. No wonder it’s called Nivole, which in Italian means clouds.

Don’t overchill – serve at, say, 8-10℃. This is Trifle and Mince-pies heaven. Summer Pudding is also great. Moreover, if you like your cheese with added fruit, this is an excellent match for the likes of Stilton with apricots.

Please be sure to look out for more examples of Moscato d’Asti appearing on these pages in 2025.

Nivole is £9.00 for a screwcapped half-bottle (375 ml) at Booths and is widely available.

 

And Finally

I hope these dozen love letters tickle your fancy. These Greatest Hits wines are great with festive fare and make great gifts.

But where’s the fortified wine? I’ve recently recommended ten different examples of Sherry for International Sherry Week 2024. So please take a look at those here.

Or, if you prefer, try these suggestions for Champagne and Port.

My other Christmas recommendations from previous years remain easily accessible here: 2023,  2022,  2021,  2020,  2019,  2018,  2017, and 2016.

Have a Cool Yule!

圣诞节快乐

Buon Natale

Joyeux Noël

Feliz Navidad

Frohe Weihnachten

Nollaig Shona

楽しいクリスマスを

Feliz Natal

God Jul

Zelig Kerstfeest

Meri Kirihimete

Eid Milad Majid

Веселого Різдва