Kellerai Kaltern

Kellerai Kaltern – Schiava Specialists

Kellerai Kaltern (Cantina Caldaro) is the largest cooperative winery in northern Italy’s Alto Adige (Südtirol) region. It’s in Kaltern an der Weinstraβe (Caldaro sulla strada di vino). Its long name shows its proximity to Kalterersee (Lago di Caldaro), the region’s largest lake. The name also appends the regional wine route, which winds 150 km through sixteen villages.

High-quality wine cooperatives have long been important in this region. Family holdings and small farms dominate this landscape, many of which are not large enough to be commercial entities. In Kaltern, the average holding is 0.7 hectares, which is only the size of an average football pitch. Hence, pooling resources into a social and commercial enterprise gives income and employment security while preserving wine-growing traditions.

Kellerai Kaltern by Petra Mayr

There were once four winery cooperatives in Kaltern. These gradually merged into Kellerai Kaltern, a single entity.

1986 saw the merger of the Erste Kellerei and the Neue Kellerei (founded in 1900 and 1925, respectively) into Erste+Neue. Then, 1992 saw the merger of the Bauern Kellerei (1906) and the Jubiläums Kellerei (1908) into Kellerei Kaltern. The final merger was between Erste+Neue and Kellerai Kaltern in 2016.

Today, Kellerai Kaltern comprises 590 members who manage 490 ha of vineyards and produce four million bottles annually. It offers 35 wines in three rising quality levels (Classic, Selection, and Quintessenz). However, it’s undoubtedly a Schiava specialist. Its modern wine shop facade illustrates this. It features a Schiava leaf in the design, part of a new gravity-fed winery established in 2017.

As for sustainability, in 2018, they were the first winery in Italy to join Fair’n Green. Therefore, this commits to employment, governance, and the environment. In addition, some members are organic, while 15 hectares are certified biodynamic.

Schiava

Schiava is a red grape, also known locally as Vernatsch. A native of the Alto Adige, it also grows as a wine grape in Germany and Austria, known as Trollinger. Furthermore, it’s also a table grape called Black Hamburg. Indeed, one of the world’s oldest grapevines, “The Great Vine” at Hampton Court in England, is Schiava Grossa.

Unusually, Schiava is not one single grape variety. It comprises distinct and unrelated vine varieties, though all look similar, such as Schiava Gentile, Schiava Grigia, and Schiava Grossa (the latter being the most widespread)¹. These are not biotypes or clones. Instead, the name Schiava, which has Roman origins, means “slave” and is thought to refer to an ancient training of vines tied (“enslaved”) on wooden poles. However, these separate varieties make similar, relatively light-bodied, aromatic, and fruity red wine.

A few Schiava wines are made as single varieties, but the three Schiavas are mostly blended, and the vines may even be interplanted in older vineyards. Hence, all three are allowed in the Kalterer DOC, as outlined below.

Kalterersee / Lago di Caldaro DOC

Though created in 1970 (the oldest DOC in the region), this may be a less familiar DOC, as much production was exported in volume to Germany and Austria. The DOC is dedicated to Schiava, and the vineyards cover about 285 hectares, extending southwards from Caldaro across the Alto Adige / Trentino border. The minimum amount of Schiava is stipulated in the DOC at 85%; however, given Schiava’s delicacy, blending in other grapes, such as Lagrien, can overwhelm its character. As we’ll see, such treatment has often been welcomed. These days, many examples are 100% Schiava, after considerable recent improvements in viticulture and vinification.

The DOC stipulates a maximum altitude of 600 metres. It has a Superiore designation for the best sites nearest to Lake Caldaro. Indeed, this DOC (alongside the Santa Maddalena subzone of Alto Adige DOC in Bolzano) is regarded as a prime site for Schiava. The vineyards also have a high proportion of old vines.

Terroir

Lago di Caldaro is the warmest alpine lake in Italy. That’s because it’s where the Alpine and Mediterranean climates collide. The microclimate of Kaltern benefits from the protection from the cold provided by the high mountains to the north and the ameliorating presence of the lake itself. The Mediterranean climate is felt from the south, with mild temperatures and abundant sunny days. Most of the vineyards occupy slopes with south-facing aspects. Two winds blow from the afternoon onwards. The first to arrive is the warm Ora, which blows north from Lake Garda in the afternoon. In the evening, the wind direction reverses when a colder wind from the north reduces temperatures, retaining acidity and aroma in the grapes.

Meanwhile, volcanic quartz porphyry and dolomitic limestone are the main rock formations, which have been eroded and transported into morainic terraces by previous glaciations. However, river gravels and lake-bed deposits have been added since the glaciers retreated, so the soils have variable compositions.

Schiava Renaissance

Until the 1980s, Schiava dominated the Alto Adige region with 68% of all production, so it was then a red wine region rather than white. Today, the situation is reversed, where white grape varieties dominate (65% white to 35% red overall, 54% white to 46% red at Kellerai Kaltern). Schiava has fallen to 8% of total regional production², though it’s 17% at Kaltern, reflecting Schiava’s suitability around Lake Caldaro.

Schiava’s dominance has declined partly because demand for lighter reds fell in the face of more powerful wine styles, and white grapes suited to the alpine conditions expanded. Lastly, Schiava’s reputation also suffered in the 1970s when quantity was still more important than quality. This was compounded by growing Schiava in less suitable areas at high yields. However, that perception is now long outdated thanks to significant quality improvements in the viticulture and vinification of Schiava, particularly from the best sites.

To illustrate this, here’s a quote from Nicolas Belfrage in 2004³: “Schiava production remains vast although on the decline, and the decline will doubtless continue unless more serious wine is made. If I say that the height of Schiava’s ambitions is decent mediocrity, I do so truly in the hope, if not the expectation, that someone someday will prove me wrong”.

Well, guess what? They have. Here’s the proof.

Three Cuvées of Schiava

Kellerai Kaltern Schiava wines

These three wines illustrate Schiava and Kellerai Kaltern’s interpretation of it. Each represents one of the three quality levels: Classic, Selection, and Quintessenz.

However, each wine is 100% Schiava, authentic yet distinctive and delicious.

They also offer versatility and value with food and occasion.

Kalterersee Classico Superiore DOC, 2023. 13%

Kellerai Kaltern Kalterersee Classico Superiore

This is the “everyday” wine from the Classico sites around Lake Caldaro. If you prefer, you can serve it slightly chilled in summer.

Technical

Vines aged 20-50 years, grown at 250-430 metres. Pergola training yields 85 hl/ha. Limestone, gravel and sandy soils. Fermentation for a week at 24℃. Ageing for four months in stainless steel and concrete tanks. Bottled under cork.

Tasting

A light cherry red that has aromatics in the cherry and raspberry spectrum, plus a slightly bitter almond note. The palate reprises these red berries. Although the wine is relatively simple, it’s voluminous and caressing. It’s light on tannin but with clean acidity and a dry, soft finish. It offers pure drinking pleasure, so revel in the simplicity. If only more wines at this level could show this control and poise. It’s one to make you smile.

Food: Drink as an aperitivo, or try Spaghetti in butter and anchovies, pizza, bruschetta, or salami/salumi. For me, grilled mutton sausages and a potato salad outside on the patio hit the spot.

UK Availability: It’s not currently available in the UK, but it’s around 8€ in Italy and Germany. It’s brilliant for immediate drinking and over another year or two.

Leuchtenberg, Kalterersee Classico Superiore DOC, 2023. 13%

Kellerai Kaltern Kalterersee Classico Superiore Leuchtenberg

The “selection” level from better Lake Caldaro sites in southeast locations near Leuchtenberg.

Technical

Vines aged 20-50 years, Pergola training, lower 80 hl/ha yield. Loamy limestone gravels. Fermentation for a week at 24℃. Ageing for six months on the lees in stainless steel and concrete tanks. Bottled under cork.

Tasting

This offers a step-change in quality. Again, cherry-red colour. Add violets and a little more bitter almond to those cherry and raspberry aromas. It offers a palate that has a wildness about it. There’s a juicy texture, well balanced to light soft tannins, with red berry fruit and moreish acidity. The almond finish is dry and long. Brilliant drinking, now and for the next two to three years. Great varietal expression and winner of the Südtirol Vernatsch Cup 2024 (against some intense competition).

Food: Try Beef Carpaccio with radish and fennel pesto. Or try local salumi such as Speck.

UK Availability: NorthSouth Wines and Iconic Wines, £16.33

Quintessenz, Kalterersee Classico Superiore DOC, 2022. 13%

Kellerai Kaltern Kalterersee Classico Superiore Quintessenz

This is Kellerai Kaltern’s top-of-the-range Schiava from the best sites, southwest at St. Josef. It has the oldest vines and the lowest yields. It’s a Gambero Rosso Tre Bicchieri award winner. Don’t chill this one!

Technical

Vines aged 30-70 years, Pergola training, lowest yields of 55 hl/ha. Sites facing SE at 230-500 metres on loamy, chalky gravel. Fermentation 25℃ for ten days. Ageing on lees in cement tanks and large old wooden casks that add no obtrusive oak flavours. Bottled under cork.

Tasting

Brilliant, deep ruby red, the aromas are the now-expected cherry, raspberry, and strawberry—with morish bitter almonds, violets, and a subtle savoury note. Then, a fuller body has riper fruit, more complexity, elegant tannins, and a smidge more alcohol. That means it has more length and depth before an earthy almond finish. Quintessence means the most perfect embodiment. I can’t argue with that.

This proves that the best Schiava can be a “serious” terror-style wine with longevity and further development over the next five years.

Food: The additional tannin and the riper fruit made this wine match grilled lamb noisettes. Or why not open a bottle to go with the Turkey this Christmas?

UK Availability: Call Me Wine £16.50 (for the 2021).

And Finally

All three wines are lovely examples. Market trends are shifting towards lighter styles of red wines rather than blockbusters. Hence, Schiava deserves discovery. Those who enjoy lighter reds (such as Bardolino, Mencía and Beaujolais) will find much to discover. Consequently, Kellerai Kaltern is an excellent place to start!

Location

Kellerai Kaltern
Via Cantina, 12
39052 Caldaro (BZ)
Alto Adige
Italy

What3words location

Notes

There is also a Schiava Lombarda in Lombardy, but no genetic relationship exists.
Figures courtesy Consorzio Alto Adige Wines.
This quotation illustrates the prevailing view of Schiava some twenty years ago, as expressed by Italian wine expert Nicolas Belfrage (1940-2022) in his book “The Wines of Northern Italy, Barolo to Valpolicella” (2004). I’m sure he would take genuine pleasure in Schiava’s quality improvements since this time.