Límite Norte – a stunning white Rioja from Ramōn Bilbao
Finding a wine that leaves you transfixed is a rare event, even more so when it’s unexpected. Then, momentarily, you feel like you’ve found the grail. And so it was with Límite Norte, a Rioja Blanco from the Ramōn Bilbao winery in Haro.
It’s worth stressing that I knew nothing about this wine before tasting it*, so there were no preconceptions. However, further investigation reveals that Límite Norte is one example of a new breed of white Rioja. One that has specific terroir and uses rare grape varieties exclusive to Rioja, with biodynamic farming and innovations in wine maturation. Moreover, it’s a wine developed explicitly in response to the climate emergency.
My inspiration for this article about Límite Norte came from that first encounter. But, of course, I purchased bottles immediately afterwards!
Rioja Blanco
Let’s start with the context of white Rioja. Though that has a long history, it has always been a relatively minor player because of the commercially dominant and famous reds, representing about 85% of production. The greatest and longest-lived examples mostly come from the Rioja Alta sub-region.
However, Rioja has become much more stylistically diverse over the last couple of decades, showing growth in white, rosé and Metodo Tradicional sparkling styles. Partly, that’s down to leveraging the Rioja “brand” and the ambition and skills of winegrowers. It’s also because of the impact of climate change.
Since 2008 there have been nine authorised white grape varieties. They offer the potential for using many combinations of aromas and flavours, mostly in blends. While Viura (aka Macabeo) still dominates, other possibilities include Malvasia, Garnacha Blanca, Turruntés, Verdejo, Sauvignon Blanc, and Chardonnay.
In addition to these are Tempranillo Blanco and Maturana Blanca, two of the most exciting high-quality grape varieties. Both are exclusive to Rioja and can cope with extreme heat, cold and drought conditions.
Tempranillo Blanco and Maturana Blanca
Maturana Blanca is an old variety; some consider it the first one documented in Rioja in 1622. While now rediscovered, it occupies less than 1% of the white vineyards. It’s aromatic, with high acidity and moderate levels of alcohol. The small grape bunches are naturally low-yielding.
Tempranillo Blanco is also remarkable, being the most recent arrival. In 1988, a natural white mutation of red Tempranillo was growing on a single vine in an old Rioja vineyard. It then took four years of research and development to create a stable vine. Finally, this new variety gained authorisation in 2004, and it’s since become the second-most planted white variety in Rioja, with 13% of the white vineyards. Tempranillo Blanco gives more alcohol and body than Maturana, but there’s no shortage of acidity.
Ramōn Bilbao
Bodegas Ramōn Bilbao owns 265 hectares of vineyards (205 ha in DOCa Rioja plus estates in the Rueda, Rías Baixas and Ribera del Duero regions). It also accesses a further 900 via grower contracts in those regions. It was the first winery certified by the Wineries for Climate Protection (WfCP). That’s a certificate of environmental sustainability developed by the Spanish Wine Federation. That demonstrates leadership in vineyard ecology, green energy, emissions reduction, water management and recycling. Though a big player in Rioja and a part of the wider Zamora drinks group, it has developed an enviable reputation for innovation and high quality.
Blending old and new
Límite Norte means “Northern Limit”. It’s a 50-50 blend of Tempranillo Blanco and Maturana Blanca. Consequently, a rare combination of the oldest and newest grape varieties, exclusively Riojan.
Ramōn Bilbao chose to plant 25 hectares of these two varieties on trellises in two plots at Cuzcurrita, at the far north-west boundary of Rioja Alta. Only a couple of decades ago, winegrowing there was impossible. But the climate emergency has changed that.
Here, the shallow gravel soils cannot retain water, and drought is the norm. Temperatures are extreme; scorching summers and freezing winters feature on a north-south exposed plateau at 450 metres. However, there are also sizeable day-night temperature swings, and such conditions also reduce the risk of fungal diseases. Farmed biodynamically, this is always the last place to be harvested in Rioja.
The 2017 vintage is the current release, a year considered “Muy Bueno” and had the earliest harvest on record. Even so, the Límite Norte picking didn’t start until the 4th of October.
Ramōn Bilbao’s winery in nearby Haro makes the wine. First, the Maturana had a cold maceration to extract more colour, aroma and even a little tannin, which is helpful for longevity. Next, fermentation was in concrete vats. However, maturation is unusual in that it involves three different vessels. You might expect a white Rioja to use 600-litre oak casks. However, cement tanks and terracotta amphorae were also employed. This combination allowed the creation of base wines with varying levels of oxygen exchange and malolactic fermentation. Hence each creates different textures, aromas and flavours. Once these combine in the final blend, there’s maturation for six months in 225-litre French oak barriques. Finally, the wine was bottled under cork and spent another year in the cellars before release.
The result
The result is a thoroughly modern style white Rioja from a large producer, yet one which captures an artisanal focus on terroir and tradition.
Bodegas Ramōn Bilbao, Limite Norte, Rioja Blanco Reserva, DOCa, 2017. 12.5 %
DOCa Rioja Blanco
Subzone: Rioja Alta
Grape Varieties: 50% Maturana Blanca, 50% Tempranillo Blanco
Level: Reserva (DOCa rules stipulate a minimum of 24 months of maturation, including six months in oak barrels)
In the glass, it’s a bright pale yellow. Then come alluring aromas, first lemon and then lime, a cloud of white blossom and pear, all set against a hazelnut background. The wine is fresh in the mouth but with plenty of body. Perhaps the alcohol is slightly more than the stated 12.5%, but there’s an effortless balance and weightless poise. Texturally, a bit of tannin leavens the creaminess. The wood ageing is subtle and unobtrusive, just offering hints of hazelnut. Being a white Rioja, it’s worth mentioning that there’s no apparent vanilla or coconut, and above all, not a trace of oxidation – this is clean and pure. Fresh fruit flavours reprise lime and pear before a persistent and harmonious minerality slowly fades away.
In short, a beautiful and complex white wine that appeals to emotions and intellect. Drinking perfectly now, but it’s worth keeping some back to develop other tertiary aromas and flavours over the next 5-10 years.
UK availability
The Fine Wine Company, Edinburgh. A case of 6 is £97.00, equivalent to £16.16 each. Single bottles: Winestore, £18.50; Wine Republic, Cardiff, £19.95. Brilliant value; I placed it somewhere north of £25.
Food
As for food, this wine is versatile, ranging from white meats to fish to tapas. Of course, manchego is an obvious cheese pairing. But, as that is sheep’s milk, try the seasonal St. James, a Cumbrian brine-washed cheese.
However, the best wine pairing found so far is appropriately Spanish. Try a Basque recipe called Kokotxas de Merluza en Salsa Verde. It’s Hake sauteed in a green sauce.
And finally
The neck label contains the inscription, “Exploro nuevos paisajes busco los límites”. In translation, “I explore new landscapes. I look for the limits.” That sums this wine up brilliantly.
PS There’s also a red Rioja counterpart from Ramōn Bilbao called Límite Sur, the Southern Limit. Made entirely from Garnacha, that wine features a red Rioja feature written for Rioja Wine Month in October 2022.
Location
Bodegas Ramōn Bilbao
Avenida Santo Domingo 34
26200 Haro
La Rioja
Spain
What3words location
*In this case, the Wines of Spain annual tasting, 2022
Would you like to try more white Rioja? Try this one!