Lison DOCG – In the Shadow of the Lion
You may never have heard of Lison DOCG, as despite its lofty status, there are only 44 hectares of vineyards and around 180,000 bottles made each year. Yet the excellent wine quality fully deserves such an appellation, which even contains a Classico subzone. There is a long history of winemaking here, since at least Roman times. Its proximity to Venice, in the shadow of the Lion, has meant there’s been a major market with export potential since the Middle Ages.
Friulano
Lison DOCG is essentially an appellation for the Friulano grape variety made into a dry still white wine. Friulano arrived here from Bordeaux in the early nineteenth century as Sauvignonasse, quickly renamed as Tokai to take advantage of the famous Hungarian wines. This in turn became Tocai Friulano in the 1920s. However, in 2008, the use of the word Tokai was restricted to those Hungarian wines, so since then it has been known simply as Friulano. There is no relationship with Sauvignon Blanc, and Sauvignonasse is officially extinct in Bordeaux now. However, this variety found an ideal home in northeastern Italy. In particular, the Lison expression of Friulano is outstanding.
Lison DOCG
The DOCG is for Friulano (a minimum of 85% but normally 100%) and is always made into a dry still white wine. In modern times, the appellation of this area has changed several times: it was originally part of the Tocai di Lison DOC in 1971. In 1985, it was incorporated into the much larger Lison-Pramaggiore DOC. However, once again it stands alone, now as a DOCG since 2010. It does have one other claim to fame, being the only DOCG that spans the borders of two Italian regions, namely Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia.
Too small to have its own Consorzio, Lison DOCG joins four other adjoining appellations within the Consorzio Vini Venezia. These are the Lison-Pramaggiore DOC mentioned above (174 ha, white and red grape varieties), Venezia DOC (2,815 ha of white and red varieties), Piave DOC (254 ha of white and red varieties) and Malanotte del Piave DOCG (an even smaller 20 ha dedicated to red Raboso). As the Consorzio says, these territories are all in the Shadow of the Lion, the Lion being the historic symbol of Venice. Those five territories comprise 200 member wineries and 47 grape varieties.
Terroir
The production area is located on the plain bordering the Venetian coast, and extends between the provinces of Pordenone, Treviso and Venice, whose borders are marked in the east by the Tagliamento river and in the west by the Livenza river. Unlike most high-quality wine areas, where hillsides and slopes usually are a major influence on the best wines, Lison is predominantly flat land. All the more remarkable then that the wine quality is so high – if we compare Lison with another area where Friulano does well, namely Collio DOC, it’s interesting that Collio restricts the vines to only hillside sites.
The temperate climate is due to the proximity of the sea, the presence of lagoon areas and the flat position, which favours the exposure of the vineyards to the winds of the area. The presence of winds, mainly in the evening, encourages diurnal temperature differences, always good for grape aromas and acidity.
In addition, a soil known as Caranto is particularly beneficial, and it’s this soil that underpins the tiny Lison Classico area. Caranto is a dark ochre clayey soil, with white streaks of calcium carbonate at a depth of 30-70 cms. There is a high concentration of minerals such as potassium, calcium and magnesium. This is said to enrich the aromatic content and complexity of the grapes and lend a typical almond finish to the wines. The DOCG laws require relatively low yields, with a minimum alcohol content of 12%, while Classico yields are slightly lower again, and alcohol must reach 12.5%. In practice, these wines are around 13% ABV. Unlike most Friulano, which is for young drinking, the wines from Lison can often age and develop over a decade.
Four representative wines
This article contains four representative Lison DOCG wines from four different producers and three vintages (2022/2023/2024). All are 100% Friulano. As Lison is small and specialised, most producers offer a range of wines from the other four territories or IGPs. At present, these wines are not available in the UK, which is a great shame. Perhaps this isn’t that surprising, given the tiny output and a ready market in nearby Venice. However, I hope that an enterprising importer might change this situation! Until then, look for these wines in Venice or visit the wineries (click on the interactive map shown below for their details). Italian retail guide prices are given for context, and you’ll see that these wines are outstanding value. Each wine was partnered with dishes to show its versatility.
Savian, Lison Classico DOCG, 2024. 13%
Savian Lison Classico DOCG
The winery
Commenced in 1925 with 4 ha, became organic in 1993, and was certified in 2007. Now 42 hectares in total. Modern solar-powered winery and ICEA certified. The Lison vineyards are in the centre of the Classico subzone at Loncon di Anone.
Winegrowing
Vines are Sylvoz trained 1. After harvest, the must is cooled to preserve texture and aromatics. Then fermentation in stainless steel with short ageing on the lees before bottling under DIAM 3 Cork.
Tasting
Very pale, silvery-white. The aromatics are all orchard fruits (green apples and pears) with a hint of roses. The palate is an explosion of these orchard fruits with fresh, zippy acidity. Fully dry in style, lovely weight and balance and a silken texture. Long almond finish has a hint of white pepper. Great refreshment value and may develop over the next couple of years.
Food
Try Tartiflette, an Alpine calorie-infused medley of potato, onion, bacon, cream and Reblochon cheese, which this wine cuts straight through.
N/A UK: Retail Guide Price at the Winery: €9.00
Villa Bogdano 1880, Lison Classico DOCG, 2022. 13%
Villa Bogdano Lison Classico DOCG
The winery
Started winegrowing in 1880, when this area was part of the Austro-Hungarian Empire, though the Venetian Villa is much older. They still have 117 Friulano vines that are from the end of the nineteenth century! 106 hectares of organic vines in total, with 18 ha defined as historical old vines at least 35 years old. This wine is from a 3 ha plot of old vines planted in 1943 in the Classico zone. Stands next to a forest noted for being unspoiled, with much biodiversity – A Natura 2000 site. Organic farming since 1993.
Winegrowing
Sylvoz training. Grape cryo-maceration before cool fermentation in glass-lined concrete tanks. Then 18 months on the lees with stirring 2-3 times per month. Bottled December 2023 under a DIAM 10 cork. Some vintages may have a little botrytis. Made with ageing and development in mind. 2022 was a dry year with high temperatures, contrasting with 2023/24, which were cooler and wetter.
Tasting
Yellowish silver, the aromatics are less fruity, instead more green sage and minerals, with a balsamic undercurrent too. All reprised on the palate, with no sign of botrytis in this year. Great poise but still lean and restrained in the glass, with a long marzipan/almond finish. Made to age and develop, so much more to come and best kept for another couple of years or more. Worth decanting.
Food
Pumpkin Risotto with Arborio rice is a brilliant match.
N/A UK, Retail Guide Price in Italy €12.00
Borgo Stajnbech, 150, Lison Classico DOCG, 2023. 13%
Stajnbech 150 Lison Classico DOCG
The winery
Family-owned business with 18 ha of vineyards, SQNPI sustainability certified. Right-weighted bottles.
Winegrowing
150 name celebrates 150 years of Italian Unification and is the Flagship wine of the estate, from the Classico subzone. 2023 is their current release, as Stajnbech believe in longer ageing. Guyot training. Soft pressing with cryomaceration for eight hours in the press, cold decanting and vinification in stainless steel. Eight months on the lees with frequent battonage, in stainless steel barrels. Bottling under a DIAM 5 Cork.
Tasting
Silver-white. Great intensity on the nose and palate, featuring pears at the forefront and a floral note, maybe wisteria. Perfect drinking now, with vibrant acidity, a saline mineral streak and a long and fresh almond and hazelnut finish. A terrific wine, and no rush to drink, any time over the next five years.
Food
Warm Morecambe Bay Shrimps with freshly baked wholemeal bread, followed by a main course of Swordfish steak in lemon pesto.
N/A UK, Retail Guide Price at the winery €17.80
Ornella Bellia, Lison DOCG, 2023. 14%
Ornella Bellia Lison DOCG
The winery
The Bellia family were sharecroppers in the 1950s; now the family ownership is in the 4th generation, with 33 hectares of vineyards, augmented by local growers. Sustainability certified by SQNPI.
Winegrowing
Sylvoz training. Harvested at the end of September, when the grapes are over-ripe, so in style this is a late harvest wine, so the alcohol is higher at 14%. The residual sugar is only 4g/l, so this is still a dry wine but in a richer style. Pre-fermentation maceration at 8 °C for 12 hours to extract all the aromas, then a soft pressing follows, with fermentation at 15 °C for approximately 15 days. Afterwards, the wine matures in steel, on the lees, with bâttonnage. 5% is aged in big old barrels to add complexity and longevity. Bottling is under a DIAM 10 cork. There is no indication of this richer style on the label; such an addition would be useful.
Tasting
Yellow-green limpid colour. Aromas of green apples and bitter almonds. Incredible richness of texture, dense palate with mouthwatering soft acidity and freshness. Very ripe Williams’ pears. Super-long mineral length with almond finish. An absolutely delicious gastronomic wine with many years ahead of it, that can stand up to powerful flavours if required, even smoked foods.
Food
Hot-smoked Salmon fillet, with a lemon dressing and roast potatoes. Followed by mild blue Gorgonzola cheese.
N/A Retail Guide Price in Italy €12.40
And Finally
These four Lison DOCG wines are outstanding and should be more widely known. To reiterate, they should take their rightful place in the UK, perhaps in the on-trade, where they can be explained and hand-sold by Sommeliers and enthusiasts of quality dining. If any come to the UK, I’ll let you know.
My thanks to Stefano Quaggio, Director of the Consorzio, for sharing these four Lison DOCG wines, and I look forward to discovering more about this special area.
I’ll leave you with this quotation from Molière, which is inscribed on the Borgo Stajnbech cork: “Grande è la fortuna di colui che possiede una buona bottiglia, un buon libro, un buon amico” 2.
Amen to that.
Location
Consorzio Vini Venezia
Via Businello,3
31040 Portobuffole
Treviso
Italy
What3words Location
Notes
- Sylvoz training: a specialist vine training system developed by Stefano Sylvoz, often used in Veneto and Friuli. In essence, a high wire trellis that’s ideal for fertile, moist soils and vigorous vine varieties and suits mechanisation if required.
- In English: “Great is the fortune of he who possesses a good bottle, a good book, and a good friend”. In French: “La chance de celui qui possède une bonne bouteille, un bon livre, un bon ami est grande”.