Luce della Vite from Frescobaldi – Luce 2016
In Italian, Luce means light. Light brings life. That’s the name of this Supertuscan winery, owned by the Frescobaldi family, whose top wine is Luce della Vite. In 1993, this project released its first vintage. It was originally a joint venture between two wine titans, namely Vittorio Frescobaldi and Robert Mondavi.
The new underground winery at Tenuta Luce
Tenuta Luce is close to the famous Tuscan hill-town of Montalcino. Today, the Marchese de’ Frescobaldi family own Luce outright. Throughout history, they’ve been explorers, musicians, bankers and politicians. But above all, they have been winegrowers; 30 generations since 1308 – the third oldest in Italy.
However, each Frescobaldi estate creates an independent brand identity. And what brands! As well as Luce della Vite, the group owns Ornellaia, Masseto, Nipozzano, Castel Giacondo and more besides.
Since they already had a Brunello DOCG estate in Castel Giacondo, and this is the place where the Sangiovese grape arguably reaches its apogee (with prices to match), why create another winery nearby? The clue perhaps is in the Frescobaldi mission statement; “Cultivating Toscana Diversity”. Each of their estates is different, with something unique, reflecting the variations in Tuscan terroir. Hence Luce della Vite, despite being in Brunello country, was not created with Brunello in mind.
Tenuta Luce’s philosophy
The estate extends over 249 hectares, of which 88 are under vine. The terroir here has two different zones. The first has lower-lying clay soils ideal for Merlot at 350 metres altitude. Meanwhile, Sangiovese occupies the higher land at 420 metres, with galestro marly soil. The light here is intense, with hot, dry summer days yet colder windy nights.
So the idea was to create the first Montalcino Supertuscan. It combines the structure of Sangiovese with the round softness of Merlot. The blend is usually around 50-50, depending on the year. It’s a contrast to Brunello, which must be 100% Sangiovese. This blend allows Luce can be drunk young or further matured, according to taste.
The striking Luce della Vite label features a shining red sun with twelve flames. This references the altarpiece in the Renaissance Basilica di Santo Spirito in Florence. Incidentally, there’s another Frescobaldi connection there – they donated the land for the Basilica.
Making Luce della Vite
Luce was designed to be iconic and achieves that effortlessly. But, of course, the proof is in the drinking.
In 2016, Luce is 55% Merlot and 45% Sangiovese. 2016 was a vintage year where there were no excesses of either heat or rain, which is becoming unusual in these days of climate change. Yields are low at 30 hl/ha, evidence of rigorous vineyard practices plus the selection of only the best grapes for this cuvée.
The grapes were macerated for four weeks to extract all the colour and tannins before a 12-day fermentation in stainless steel. The wine matures for 24 months in French oak barriques, 85% new and 15% second-fill. That level of new oak used might sound excessive, but it isn’t overt. Instead, the wood adds depth and subtle flavours. Bottling was in December 2018, twelve months ago.
Tasting Luce della Vite
Luce is a powerful wine and a young one, so it had an hour’s decanting before serving.
15% abv is on the label, but it feels less than that. Regardless, Luce never feels hot or heady. Such is the balance of alcohol with fresh acidity and concentrated fruit. It wears its alcohol lightly.
It’s a dark ruby red, with aromas of pencil lead, bergamot, oranges, and brown spices underlying sour cherry. On the palate, the watchwords are elegance and finesse. Despite its richness, it’s agile; there’s nothing weighty or clumsy, just the cherry and plum fruit depth. Meanwhile, the tannins add polish and a luxuriously smooth shine.
Finally, on a persistent length, savoury spices re-appear. This young wine will develop further, yet why wait? Yes, it’s a modern “international style”. But, in this case, what style.
Luce della Vita isn’t a wine for every day. It’s an unashamed luxury but worth it.
Stockists
Luce della Vite 2016 is available at several UK stockists, including VINVM £82.95.
Other wines made by Tenuta Luce
Those wanting to explore the style of Luce della Vite at a lower price should try Lucente, the “second wine” of the estate made since 1995, which is also a blend of Sangiovese and Merlot in a lighter style. £28.95 from VINVM
Since 2015, there’s also been a Cabernet Sauvignon (planted in 2004) with around 10% Sangiovese called Lux Vitis, £144.00 at Crump, Richmond and Shaw.
But I hear some say, “I still want Brunello”. In 2003, Luce della Vite introduced one from five hectares of DOCG vines. That’s £85.00 at Ocado.
Location
Frescobaldi, Tenuta Luce
Loc. Castelgiocondo
53024 Montalcino
Siena
Toscana
Italy
What3Words Location
Sustainability
A final word on sustainability, now vital in combating Climate Change. Frescobaldi uses various techniques across its estates. For example, they are AgriQualità certified for sustainable farming in the vineyard. Their forests are certified as sustainably managed too. In production, they reduced their carbon footprint with lighter bottles and reducing energy and water. In addition, there is solar power and a biomass plant.
Meanwhile, for more Tuscan gems, try here.
A review of Luce 2017, making the 25th Anniversary, is here.