Lugana DOC – Jewel of Lake Garda

Lugana DOC – Jewel of Lake Garda

Regular readers will know of my love for Lake Garda and its multifarious wines. Garda is Italy’s largest lake, handily placed at the crossroads of European travel. Some of the wine appellations surrounding Garda feature elsewhere on these pages, each with its own identity and story.  Now, it’s the turn of Lugana. This is a DOC at the southern end of Lake Garda, a small diamond-shaped area with a big personality. Think of it as a jewel worn as a pendant on Lago di Garda’s neckline.

The Lugana DOC

Lugana has been a DOC just for white wine since 1967, so it was one of Italy’s earliest appellations, and its Consorzio began in 1990. It’s only 2,560 hectares, with some 215 growers and 90 producers. However, it has grown considerably since the 394 hectares recorded in 1988, expanding away from the historic area closest to the lakeshore ¹.

Tourists flock to this beautiful area, which is a recreational playground; the lakeshore towns of Desenzano, Sirmione and Peschiera have been resorts since Roman times, and vines were here then, too.

Then known as Lacus Lucanus (the Lake in the Woods), the forest and marshlands are long gone, cleared by the Venetians for agriculture in the fifteenth century. Tourism also means that there has always been a ready local market for Lugana wines. While 60% is now exported, that’s mainly to Germany, Austria and Switzerland – all on the doorstep, with sales boosted by vacationers from those nations. However, Lugana wines have markets in 65 countries, including the UK.

Unusually, Lugana is one of the few DOCs that straddle two Italian regions: Lombardy to the west and Veneto to the east. While 90% of the vineyards are in Lombardy,  60% of the wineries are in Veneto. On average, some 28 million bottles are made each year.

Terroir

This region occupies a glacial plain, left when the glaciers that created Lake Garda retreated some 10,000 years ago. Near the lakeshore, the soils are heavy calcareous clay, which is also ideal for brick-making. This limits yields and seems to increase the intensity and salinity of the wines. This is also the area with the lowest rainfall.

However, going south towards San Martino della Battaglia, this gradually changes to low hills with sandier gravel and silt soils. Underpinning all these soils is a mineral-rich and amphitheatre-shaped glacial moraine.

Temperatures here are moderated by the proximity to the Lake and the constant cooling breezes that ensue, which also keep humidity low. These are the Ora in the afternoon from the south and the Peler in the evening from the north. Indeed, the vines, mostly planted to modern Guyot training, are oriented north-south to take advantage of these winds.

Turbiana

However, Lugana’s claim to greatness also derives from its local white grape, now known as Turbiana. This variety was once known as Trebbiano di Lugana, and it closely resembles both Trebbiano di Soave and Verdicchio from the Marche. Previous DNA testing suggested that these three were all genetically identical, making each a biotype adapted to its local terroir.

However, more recent DNA testing delved deeper, showing Turbiana to have sufficient genetic differences to be a grape variety in its own right, with its own unique identity separate from Trebbiano di Soave and Verdicchio.²

While DNA now proves the pedigree, Turbiana has long adapted to the Lugana terroir, having existed in this region since at least medieval times. Turbiana is a late ripener with a thick skin. It doesn’t drop its acidity at harvest time, and the climate here encourages long and slow ripening into the autumn. Furthermore, the acidity has a high proportion of tartaric acid, which ensures freshness in the young wines and enables the Riservas to age and develop over a decade or more. Additionally, that acidity ensures balanced sparkling and sweet wines, so Turbiana enables five white wine styles in Lugana DOC.

Styles

Lugana DOC stipulates that Turbiana must make up at least 90% of the wine, though most are 100%. If there is another component, it’s usually Friulano or Chardonnay.

90% of all Lugana DOC production is dry and still DOC “normale”, typically aged for 4-5 months. This means the “basic” level drives wine sales from this region, offering high quality and value. These wines are best enjoyed young, within 2-3 years.

The other 10% comprises the four other styles. The Superiore and Riserva levels build on the normale. Superiore, introduced in 1998,  stipulates at least 12 months of ageing, while Riserva (introduced in 2011) insists on at least 24 months, including six months in the bottle.  These levels were introduced to showcase longevity, and the Riservas can develop over ten years or more.

Some oaked examples exist because Turbiana and wood can play nicely together. Generally speaking, any overt oak flavours in the wine have reduced markedly in recent years, and most wood used now is in large old barrels which impart no flavours. While there are slight differences in minimum alcohol levels according to style, these have no practical impact in our age of global warming.

There’s also a sparkling (spumante) version in Charmat and Método Classico forms. Finally, a sweet late harvest (Vendemmia Tardiva) wine is made from over-ripe grapes that are not dried (an essential distinction given the apassimento dried style of other wines in Veneto and Lombardy).

The Wines and Producers

I recently presented these eight Lugana DOC wines to a wine enthusiast group.

Since 90% of production is the DOC Bianco style, five wines are DOC, plus one Superiore and two Riservas. Sadly, the Sparkling and sweet wines have to wait until another time.

The wines featured here are also from family wineries, and all are 100% Turbiana. Fermentation is usually in temperature-controlled stainless steel, with bottling under cork.

Meanwhile, these producers are highlighted on this interactive map:

Cantina Bertagna, Lugana DOC. 2023. 13%

Gianfranco Bertagna’s winery is near Cavriana, in the heart of the Morainic hills towards the south of the DOC. It produces a range of white, red, and sparkling wines, including their Lugana DOC. From a vineyard near Pozzolengo, much nearer the lake with clay soils at an altitude of 50 metres. A small amount of skin contact, with ageing for six months in stainless steel.

In the glass

It’s pale lemon-coloured and has a primarily lemony-citrus aroma and flavour. It then opens up and becomes a little more tropical (very ripe grapes?). It has good weight, substance, mouthfeel, and clean length. There’s a typical almond finish, with a hint of wintergreen.

Guide Price €11.50

 

 

Cantina Franzosi, Lugana DOC. 2023. 13%

Cantina Franzosi is at Puegnago del Garda, on the eastern shores of the lake. They have 25 hectares and manage 15 ha, making 500,000 bottles of various wines annually. The wine comes from vineyards with clay soils near the lake near Sirmione. It is aged “for a period” in stainless steel.

In the glass

This wine has more apple aroma and flavour, undercut with almonds. It has a morish saline texture, which is reprised on the finish.

Guide Price €11.50

 

 

Santa Sofia, Lugana DOC. 2023. 13%

The Santa Sofia winery dates from 1811 and is in Valpolicella, at San Pietro in Cariano. The current owners, the Begnoni family, have owned it since 1968. In 2020, they bought 6 hectares in Lugana DOC at Pozzolengo, in the southeast of the DOC. In this respect, several Valpolicella-based wineries have expanded into Lugana. Looser mineral-rich calcareous soils at an altitude of 150-170 metres, vineyard management without herbicides. It is aged three months in stainless steel and bottled under a DIAM 5 cork.

In the glass

In a broader style, the apple fruit is accompanied by a hint of peach, then a grapefruit bite, giving way to a final saline finish.

Guide Price UK £18.50

 

Carlo Zenegaglia, Lugana DOC, Montefluno. 2023, 13%

Carlo Zenegaglia is based in Pozzolengo, in the heart of the DOC, and makes a wide range of wines from its 20 hectares. The Lugana DOC grapes are harvested manually from their Montefluno farm at the top of a morainic hill. The ageing period isn’t stated but is believed to be 4-5 months, as is typical.

In the glass

A shade deeper in colour, this is a fleshier wine with more body and substance. It is mouth-filling, with a good balance of fruit. It is a little softer with a little less salty acidity and more apple fruit before an attractive almond length.

Guide Price €11.90

 

 

 

Perla del Garda, Lugana DOC Superiore, Madonna della Scoperta. 2022. 12.5%

The Perla del Garda project started planting in 2000 and created a gravity-fed winery in 2006. 34 ha of vineyards surround the winery. They make red and rosé wines of other denominations and Lugana DOC wines. The Lugana vineyards are at Lonato del Garda, on calcareous soils of morainic hills of 150 – 200 metres. Harvested manually, the modern winery is gravity-fed. Ageing is done using a combination of stainless steel and large old barrels for 12 months. The distinctive bottle is unusually shaped. Their Lugana DOC wines come in all five styles, including certified organic DOC and Spumante. Since 2022, all their grapes are farmed organically. Named after a nearby sanctuary, this Superiore is  SQPNI-certified sustainable. This wine was a Gambero Rosso Tre Biccheri award winner in 2024.

In the glass

It clearly shows the extra age that Superiore brings, and excellent winemaking offers more complexity and nuance. It has a deeper colour. There’s a subtle tension here, with bitter almonds and salty minerals bound into lemon, apple, and peach fruits. This is an excellent and elegant wine with a longer, satisfying finish.

Guide Price €20.00

Zenegaglia Fratelli, Lugana DOC Riserva, Luna del Lago. 2021. 13.5%

Note that this is a different organisation from Carlo Zenegaglia above. Vittorio Zenegaglia founded Zenegaglia in 1930, but the holdings were split into two separate companies (Carlo Zenegaglia and Zenegaglia Fratelli) in 1971. Fratelli Zenegaglia has 25 ha of vineyards between Pozzolengo and Peschiera. They produce red wines and Lugana. This Riserva comes from their oldest Turbiana vines. The grapes ferment in stainless steel and French oak tonneaux, and the wine is then aged for 24 months, comprising 18 months in stainless steel and six months in the bottle. Nomacorc.

In the glass

The Riserva shows the benefit of additional ageing with the best grapes. This wine offers a deeper colour. Then, there was an aroma reminiscent of Lily of the Valley. Then, a broader, creamy texture shows more grapefruit, lime, and apple intensity. There is a longer almond finish and a little saline freshness. Still youthful, with more to come.

Guide Price €18.00

 

 

La Rifra, Lugana DOC Riserva, Il Bepi. 2021. 13.5%

La Rifra is run by the Fraccaroli family at Pilandro, on the Lombardy/Veneto border. It has 14 ha of vineyards on clay soils. The family makes red and rosé, though production is mainly Lugana. The winery has been in operation since its founding in the 1970s.  The grapes for this riserva are from the oldest vines, over 40 years old and farmed without herbicides. They grow on clay soils at an altitude of 70-80 metres. The harvest is a hand-selection of the best grapes. This Riserva exceeds the minimum ageing period, with 30 months in total, 24 months in large wooden barrels, and six months in the bottle.

In the glass

Again, a young Riserva, aroma, perhaps Honeysuckle, and a broader and deeper palate featuring almonds and peach with a fresh saline undertow. There is real finesse here; it is definitely a keeper.

Guide Price UK £29.00

 

 

El Citera, Lugana DOC. L’Artigianale, 2018. 13.5

In 1927, the Zanetti family founded El Citera at Peschiera del Garda. The current third-generation winemaker is Ambra Zanetti. Their philosophy is to practice “eco-culture,” and they only make this one wine. Their three hectares are all low-yielding Turbiana vines on clay soil up to sixty years old. The winegrowing here is according to the moon’s phases, and there are some biodynamic practices, though there is no organic or biodynamic certification. The goal is a low-intervention “natural” expression with conventional winemaking. Fermentation is in concrete tanks with 24 hours of skin contact.

It’s classified as a “normale” DOC,  but the wine receives 24 months of ageing in concrete tanks followed by three months in the bottle.  I assume it isn’t a Riserva because the bottle ageing is below the DOC minimum. It comes in a distinctive bottle under a Nomacorc and yellow wax seal. Each bottle has a number and bottling date. This one is 1,055, on 06/04/2023. Total production is unknown but will be tiny.

In the glass

L’Atiginale stands out from these wines, proving how Lugana can age and develop. Whether due to the old vines, additional maturation, winemaking style, or a combination, this thoughtful yet exciting wine has more in common with Riserva than the humbler “normale”. The apple fruit, saline acidity, and almond notes identify it as Lugana. However, an herbal note of wintergreen and an added leafiness add complexity to a rich and refined palate. The wine also closes out with an intriguing savoury note. Still, more to come, though hard to resist now. Expensive, if you consider it a “normale”. Not so considering the tiny quantities made, the individuality and quality on offer.

Guide Price €30.00

Conclusions

These eight wines are excellent examples of the appellation. Most are unavailable in the UK, hence the guide prices. Consequently, I’d like to suggest two options.

The first is to spend your next vacation in the Lake Garda area, where you can encounter these wines and visit the wineries. Alternatively, the second is to look for other Lugana wines with wider UK distribution. Try examples from producers such as Tommasi, Zenato, Monte del Fra, Ca’Miol, and Ca dei Frati.

And Finally

I’ve left the food matching until last. The DOC normale wines make great apertivo but also go particularly well with sashimi/sushi, salmon, trout, and shellfish (try crab pasta). Superiore and Riserva can match saltwater fish in sauces, chicken, and rabbit. Salads and green risotto (pea, asparagus, fennel) are good choices for vegetarians. Serve chilled.

However, I served portions of Morecambe Bay Potted Shrimps with these eight wines. These tiny brown shrimp are from Morecambe Bay in Cumbria and Lancashire. They boil in clarified butter with nutmeg, mace, and white pepper before cooling in small pots. All you need to do is serve this simple but rich delicacy cold on toast or warm with fresh crusty bread. I can’t think of a better match!

As for cheese, St. James made a fine match, particularly with the older wines.

 

 

 

 

 

Notes

1. I Cru di Enogea Lugana. First Edition. Alessandro Masnaghetti Editore. Map and commentary.
2. Turbiana has “an abnormal allele of five hundred nucleotide bases in the VVMD36 Locus.” In D’Agata, Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs, 2019.

Location

Consorzio Tutela Lugana DOC.
Parco Catullo, 4
37019 Peschiera del Garda (VR)
Italy.

What3words Location

 

Thanks to Edoardo Perduto (Director, Consorzio Tutela Lugana DOC) and Ambra Berardi (Comunicazione) for the wines and background information.