Morellino di Scansano and Cantina Vignaioli
What’s in a name? Morellino di Scansano is in Tuscany’s deep southwest, occupying the central Maremma close to the coast. Much of this area was once wild malarial marshland before humans drained it. So, it was more suitable for horses, cattle, and sheep than vines. This was a poor area with relatively few inhabitants.
However, moving inland, the landscape gradually rises in height and changes into rolling green hillsides. These are ideal for vines, which have been here since the Etruscans made and exported wine to Europe thousands of years ago.
Today, Scansano is a hilltop town of some 4,500 souls at the heart of the DOCG. It has Etruscan origins and the obligatory medieval castle and monastery, strategically perched above panoramas of vineyards, olive groves, wheatfields and the Mediterranean maquis shrubland known as Macchia.
Morellino di Scansano terroir
Meanwhile, Morellino is the local name for Sangiovese, referring to its Morello Cherry-like fruit flavour when grown in these parts.
Morellino di Scansano is one of Tuscany’s prestigious DOCG wine appellations, admittedly less well known than Brunello or Chianti Classico but possessing equal ranking and potential for excellence.
While the Morellino that grows here is still recognisably Sangiovese, the wine style is generally fruitier and softer, even velvety. That’s different from Sangiovese’s structure and power from cooler climes like Brunello or Chianti Classico.
Morellino di Scansano DOCG
Notice I said the Sangiovese grown here was different, not inferior. Indeed, Sangiovese thrives here on the infertile, free-draining, primarily sandy soils. Additionally, the warm maritime climate encourages full ripening.
The Morellino di Scansano DOCG occupies some 65,000 hectares, though only 1,000 hectares of appellation vineyards exist. A PDF map of the DOCG can be found here to help with orientation. It became a DOC in 1978 and then DOCG in 2006.
Refreshingly, the DOCG rules are straightforward, allowing plenty of scope for winemaking expression and applying only to Sangiovese. There are two levels. The annata must be a minimum of 85% Morellino and age for at least 4-5 months with a minimum of 12.5% abv. 100% Morellino wines are not uncommon, but up to 15% can be other red varieties.
The Riserva level only differs from this because it stipulates a slightly higher minimum alcohol of 13% and longer ageing in wood. Here, it’s at least two years, of which 12 months must be spent in wood.
Maremma Toscana DOC
Given the DOCG only covers Sangiovese (Morellino), what about other grape varieties and blends? The past few decades have seen the Maremma open up to wine investment, particularly from Tuscan wineries looking to expand into greenfield sites, with malaria long banished. So, as well as a smattering of other Tuscan native varieties, the international varieties are also present.
Give a warm welcome to Viognier, Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Syrah, and others. The appellation for these wines is often the more extensive Maremma Toscana DOC, which, since 2011, covers all of the Tuscan Maremma. This broad church encompasses 17 different red and white grapes and all styles: white, rosé, and red colours, plus sparkling and sweet wines. There’s also the even wider-ranging Toscana IGP.
Where to start?
With such a variety of wines available, where best to start exploring? Well, whenever confronted with a new area, I advise beginning at the local Cooperative. They will make all the essential styles, and the best coops (of which there are now many) are the benchmark. Welcome then to the Cantina Vignaioli Scansano, a model of cooperative and sustainable wine excellence.
Cantina Vignaioli Scansano
The Cantina dates from 1972, predating the 1978 DOC designation. At that time, this part of the Maremma was far from the Tuscan tourist sites and economically poor. Vineyard holdings were traditionally small, fragmented and family-owned, with an average size of just 4 hectares. Meanwhile, the Morelino wine was only the humble Vino di Tavola and largely unknown.
Consequently, an initial 17 winegrowers came together to found the cooperative. By the late seventies, membership had grown as the rewards of mutuality became established.
The co-op then took the radical decision (for the time) to focus on quality wines capable of expressing their territory instead of the bulk volume norm. Such leadership would secure the DOC and lead towards DOCG status; this success, in turn, appealed to other existing wineries and new entrants, and so the potential of this place became realised.
Sustainability and Innovation
Panorama
Sustainability was always at the forefront of Cantina’s agenda, as social, economic and environmental factors are inextricably bound together.
Rather than detail all the various certifications, audits and initiatives, these can be found in their 2022 Sustainability Report. This report is an excellent example of business reporting clarity and an essential read for anyone interested in sustainability!
Over fifty years, the Cantina has grown to 170 grower members and 700 hectares of vines. These days, ultra-modern facilities and winery processes are not unusual. However, using drones and the Internet of Things to monitor vineyard health and the vegetative cycle is still innovative, as is using ozone to ensure vineyard and winery hygiene.
There are some 4 million bottles annually, about half of which are Morellino di Scansano DOCG. That represents about 20% of the overall DOCG production. Additionally, 300,000 bottles are certified organic, a growing proportion. The Cantina bottles its wine using Nomacorc Green Line net zero corks and smartly designed labels. It has also forged links with six other leading Italian wine cooperatives, creating The Winenet, a network to share information and market the wines.
The Wines
Naturally, the Cantina makes a wide range of about twenty wines. Consequently, six of their most representative wines feature here. All are excellent examples of this territory. The first three are varietal wines under the Maremma Toscana DOC appellation. Three different expressions of Morellino di Scansano DOCG follow.
Three Maremma Toscana DOC wines
Vermentino, Vigna Fiorini, Maremma Toscana DOC, 2022. 13.5%
Vigna Fiorini Vermentino
Technical
Vermentino 85%, Viognier 15%, picked and processed separately. Age of vines: 7-10 years. All the grapes come from the same vineyard at 120 metres ASL. Late harvest at the end of September: the grapes remain on the vines for three more weeks to concentrate sugars. The press is saturated with carbon dioxide to prevent oxidation. The juice macerates at 7-8°C for around 12 hours. A long pressing only extracts the free-run juice for this wine. The fermentation starts with selected yeast and lasts three weeks at 15°C. Ageing is then in stainless steel tanks for three months on fine lees. Bottling is in March after the harvest.
Tasting
This wine’s fruit weight, honeysuckle scents and richness signify Viognier, a harmonious blending partner with Vermentino. The Vermentino adds the acidity and minerality that Viognier so often lacks. This is nicely balanced and clean with bold fruit flavours. A bright yellow-gold, with honeysuckle and stone fruit on the nose, before a rich palate leavened with fresh acidity and a dry mineral fade-out. An excellent example with a distinct personality, designed to be drunk within three years, though it has enough structure to age longer. It proved an excellent partner with roasted salmon fillet on a bed of braised fennel. Great value, too. White Fox Wines £16.95
Ciliegiolo, Capoccia, Maremma Toscana DOC, 2022. 14%
Cappocia Ciliegiolo
Technical
Ciliegiolo, grown in silty soils at 100-300 metres ASL. A small amount of Alicante is included to add a little more tannin for structure – the amount added has fallen steadily with each passing vintage, possibly as the Ciliegiolo vines have matured. The vines are now 10-15 years old, machine-harvested mid-September, and preserved with dry ice until vinification. Maceration at 35°C for 12 hours, then fermentation at 27°C. Wine is drawn off after four days of fermentation on the skins, and fermentation then completes without further skin contact. Ageing in stainless steel tanks for three months on fine lees and then in bottles for at least three months.
Tasting
Ciliegiolo is an ancient Tuscan grape related to Sangiovese and is most often found in blends, but based on this evidence, it deserves to be a varietal wine more frequently. Capoccia means something like the “Chief”. A deep ruby, there are impressive cherry-like scents from which this grape gets its name. There’s a soft palate, plenty of pure bright cherry fruit, and an intriguing savoury edge. There’s just enough acidity and tannin for balance with the alcohol and fruit. Excellent length and a slow fade, finishing cleanly. This is designed for young drinking over the next three years. It’s a hugely enjoyable wine, a great introduction to this grape variety, and super value. Food: try a Chicken tray-bake with tomatoes and red peppers. White Fox Wines £15.95, London Wine Deliveries £17.29
Sangiovese, Vin del Fattore, Maremma Toscana DOC, 2022. 14%
Vin del Fattore Sangiovese
Technical
Sangiovese 95%, Ciliegiolo 5%. Sandy soils are rich in silt at 60-90 metres ASL. Young vines 5-10 years old. Ciliegiolo was harvested in mid-September, and the Sangiovese in early October. Sangiovese grapes are hand-picked in small boxes and left to dry in refrigerated cells to lose 15% of their weight. Sangiovese is vinified at 27°C with maceration on the skins for 4-6 days, then the wine is drawn off, and the fermentation is concluded without further skin contact.
Meanwhile, after about four weeks of drying, the Ciliegiolo grapes are pressed. Once they complete their fermentation, the previously vinified Sangiovese is added. This is a traditional process known as Governo all’Uso. Ageing is then in stainless steel tanks for three months on fine lees. Designed to be drunk young, say up to three years from the vintage.
Tasting
The Ciliegiolo brings a deeper garnet colour to the party, adding a vibrant cherry to Sangiovese’s violet scent. Also of particular note is that the wine texture is pillowed and soft thanks to the Governo process. It also has an outstanding balance, with a mass of pure dark fruits (black cherry, plum) backed with a savoury note, a little underbrush, clean acidity and a velvet fade that brings you back for more. This is a terrific and exciting wine of exceptional value – so it can easily hold its own against much more expensive rivals. Bravo! Perfect with simple Steak and chips (see the food section below for more). Svinando, £13.40
Three Morellino di Scansano DOCG wines
Roggiano Biologico, Morellino di Scansano DOCG. 2022, 14%
Roggiano Bio Morellino di Scansano DOCG
Technical
Sangiovese 95%, Alicante 5%, organically grown on sandy soils with silt at 100-300 metres ASL. The vines are 10-20 years old and machine-harvested at the end of September, so they are preserved with Dry Ice until ready to vinify. Maceration at 35°C for twelve hours, then fermentation at 27°C. After seven days, wine is taken off the skins. Maturation in stainless steel tanks for four months on fine lees, then bottling and further ageing for at least three months. Named Roggiano after a local Macchia bush called Roggi.
Tasting
Ruby coloured with a garnet fleck. On the nose are aromas of cherry, raspberry, and roses. The palate is fresh and fruity, with clean morello cherry, hibiscus and a little strawberry. Velvety texture, a forest floor note and juicy acidity. Excellent balance, length and immediacy. Drinking now. Great value. White Fox Wines £16.95, London Wine Deliveries £19.14
Roggiano, Morellino di Scansano Riserva DOCG, 2020. 15%
Roggiano Morellino di Scansano Riserva DOCG
Technical
They selected 100% Sangiovese grapes from vineyards with sandy soils rich in silt at 250 metres ASL. The vines are over 25 years old. Hand-picked in the first week of October. Fermentation: Maceration at 35°C for 12 hours; then fermentation at 29°C follows, with post-fermentative maceration on the skins. Overall, fermentation lasts 12 days. Natural malolactic fermentation takes place a few days after drawing off. Ageing: in small French oak barriques of 225-litre capacity (20% new, 80% once and twice-used) for 12 months. Blending then a short stay in stainless steel tanks before bottling. Further ageing in the bottle for ten months.
Tasting
The Riserva is a step up, as it should be, and features the stipulated wood ageing. More structure and longevity here. A little darker in colour, the nose adds a floral note to the cherry. The palate is much fuller-bodied, being 15% ABV. However, there is no alcoholic heat, and it’s well balanced by the ripeness of the fruit, fresh acidity and a little extra wood tannin. This is the first time this wine has reached 15% – a severe heat spike just before the harvest saw to that. Has integrated any new wood; there are no evident wood flavours here, perhaps a fleeting whiff of wood smoke. On the palate, there’s a savoury note reminiscent of olive tapenade, some Meditteranean herbs mixed with velvety Morello cherry, and a reminiscence of pomegranate.
Darker in character and with a long, dry finish, it’s drinking well now and over the next five years or more. Excellent value, too. White Fox Wines £24.50
Sicomoro, Morellino di Scansano Riserva DOCG. 2020, 15%
Sicamoro Morellino di Scansano DOCG
Technical
A single-vineyard “Cru” 100% Sangiovese from 30-year-old vines on sandy soil (with clay and silt only one metre down) at 300 metres ASL, closer to the sea. Hand-picked in the first week of October. Maceration occurs at 35°C for twelve hours; fermentation at 29°C follows, with post-fermentative maceration on the skins. Overall, fermentation lasts 12 days. Natural malolactic fermentation takes place a few days after drawing off. Ageing: the wine stays for eighteen months in a combination of 2,500-litre oak barrels and small new French oak barriques of 225 litres. A short stay in a stainless steel tank follows the blending. It then matures in the bottle for twelve months.
Tasting
The name is after the sycamore trees surrounding the vineyard. It’s Morellino’s most ambitious expression. Again, as a Riserva, it uses oak ageing but a different regime that perhaps adds more tannin (and maybe there are more grape tannins as well, given the altitude and soil structure). The result is a distinct expression from the Roggiano above. Darker, denser, and firmer now, requiring decanting an hour before serving. There are some cherry, cinnamon and violet notes, but they are less scented and need more time to develop. The palate is again 15% thanks to that heat spike before harvest. Again, alcohol isn’t intrusive, but there’s much more structure and higher acidity, and it needs more time to smooth out into a harmonious, velvety wine. I am confident it will. With a long finish, the dark cherry, Macchia herbs, and baking spices leave an impression of brooding power.
This is one to keep for (at least) a couple of years longer and will develop over a decade or more. Consider decanting well ahead of serving, and this wine demands food. If Morellino di Scansano had a similar appellation to Chianti Classico’s reworked Gran Selezione, this would be it. Once again, exceptional value for the quality on offer. Svinando, £29.00
Food
Perhaps the most authentically Tuscan food match for Morellino di Scansano would be Steak, preferably rare. Indeed, the meat for the classic Bistecca alla Fiorentina should come from only two breeds of high-quality Italian cattle: the well-known Chianina and the rare Maremmara. The horned grey Maremmara breed is hardy and adapted to sustainable wild grazing in the Macchia or for being a draught animal. Fewer than 5,000 Maremmara cattle are left, and a Slow Food Presidium helps protect and preserve the breed and its husbandry.
Alternatively, Porchetta is always a good choice, as is Ragù and pasta. Vegetarians should seek out spinach and ricotta in Gnudi (dumplings) or Tortelli pasta (similar in shape to a large Ravioli).
And finally
The Etruscan God of wine was Fufluns, a deity similar to the more familiar Dionysus and Bacchus. He was also the God of plant life, happiness, health, and growth. I can’t help thinking he would enthusiastically recommend all these wines. I certainly do. Indeed, you couldn’t ask for a better introduction to a region’s wines.
Location
Cantina Vignaioli del Morellino di Scansano
Strada comunale del Saragiolo
58054 Scansano (GR)
Toscana
Italy
What3Words Location
I am indebted to the Cantina Vignaioli Scansano. Also, thanks to the Consorzio Tutela Morellino di Scansano DOCG for the map and DOCG rules.