Ottavianello by Vallone in Puglia
Ottavianello is true rarity. A red grape variety mostly grown in the super-obscure Ostuni DOC, on the Salento peninsula of Puglia. DNA profiling shows it’s the French Cinsault 1, widely grown in Provence and Languedoc. There’s no doubt though that it’s gone native since arriving in Puglia in the nineteenth century. It’s a distinct biotype.
Pedants might say that it’s an international variety. But realistically, it’s (by now) an autochthonous grape, just as Tai Rosso in the Veneto is a distinct biotype of Grenache.
Ostuni DOC, one of the first of the 28 Puglian DOCs, was created in 1972. It covers white and red varieties, but the red wine is Ottavianello, which must be at least 85% 2. 100% varietal wines are made, as is the one featured here.
As for wine quality, the name Vallone, makers of the legendary Gratticiaia 3 should be enough at this point to suggest that something special is going on.
Making a case for Ottavianello
Given its southern French origins, you can see why Ottavianello might do well in Puglia. After all, the regions name derives from a Roman word meaning “lack of rain.” Ottavianello is productive, drought resistant and, while susceptible to fungal diseases, occurrences of those are a relative rarity in Puglia.
Ostuni DOC is dominated by the delightful town of the same name, rightly known as the White City, which shimmers against clear azure skies.
The terroir here is known for being dry, with intense summer light. The summer heat is moderated by Mediterranean breezes. There is also Karst topography, typical of limestone. Consequently, the red earth soils are calcareous, occasionally sandy, free draining and rich in iron.
Vineyards are typically located between 200-400 metres, which offers considerable diurnal variation, and most are orientated north to south.
Meanwhile, the Ostuni DOC rules specify Ottavianello as the principal red variety. It also clearly delimits the DOC boundaries and the those other red native grapes that can be optionally added up to 15%.
The minimum ABV for Ottavianello wine is 11.5%, and while yields are restricted, there’s no restrictions on maturation, either by timescale or by vessel. Winemakers therefore are granted considerable latitude.
Frustratingly, the current area under vine isn’t clear and Puglia often lacks the Consorzia that are so helpful with facts and figures in other parts of Italy. There are large acreage variations stated by various sources, none of which seem accurate or recent. Given the demand for the better known and stronger Primitivo and Negro Amaro, it’s likely that vineyard area for Ottavianello is in decline, and could be as little as 20 ha.
Ottavianello is not a rosé
Ottavianello makes a relatively light red wine, which is generally soft and without harsh tannins. It’s also strongly aromatic and typically cherry-fruited. It can add aromatics to a blend, or offer an early drinking food-friendly red that can be chilled a little in summer.
Beware the plethora of websites that suggest it’s a rosé. This is simply incorrect but now seems commonplace, perhaps because of AI, or simply a repetition of incorrect information without fact checking. It’s no more a rosé than red wines such as Bardolino, Dolcetto or Beaujolais. In fact, it fulfils a similar role to those better known lighter red examples.
If you only take one thing away from this article, let it be that Ottavianello is not a rosé, and the Ostuni DOC does not include rosato!
How did Ottavianello get to Puglia?
But how did Ottavianello get to Ostuni? Well, it’s an easy enough sea trade journey between France and say, Brindisi, which has always been a major port, the origins of which predate even the Ancient Greek colony. It’s very likely the case that Cinsault arrived in Italy due to the strong demand for recognisable red wines when phylloxera was devastating French vineyards, from the 1850s onwards.
As a producer of volume bulk wines. Puglia was well placed to take advantage of that demand. Indeed, the forerunners of Vallone were engaged in just such activity.
Wine writer Nicholas Belfrage4 suggested that the Ottavianello arrived in Puglia via a Neapolitan commune called Ottaviano, (which lent its name to the grape) which is near Mount Vesuvius in Campania. He said it had been taken from there by the Marchesi di Bugnano, who had first sourced the vines from France. Unfortunately no references were cited for this, though this story certainly has a ring of truth.
Leaving troublesome origins, style and figures behind, let’s see what Vallone are doing with their Ottavianello.
Vallone
Castel Serranova
Founded in 1934 by marriage, this family winery is one of the original quality producers of the Salento peninsula and has a stellar reputation thanks, in part, to Graticciaia, first made in 1986.
Before this, the estates of Flaminio and Iore had been making bulk wines for France and Tuscany in the mid nineteenth century. A third estate, Tenuta Castel Serranova, was added to the holdings in the 1960s, and bottling commenced in the 1970s.
Sisters Vittoria and Maria Teresa Vallone, along with Francesco Vallone own and run the estate today, and have long championed quality over quantity.
Of the family’s 600 hectares of land spread over three estates, vineyards cover 170 hectares of them. Flaminio has a total of 130 hectares, of which 95 ha is of native Puglian vines. Iore’s 35 ha are dedicated to Negroamaro, while Castel Serranova has 335 hectares incorporating 50 ha of vines and a Nature Reserve. The rest of their land grows various crops, including olives.
Those three sites combined make 550,000 bottles each year. There are 16 wines, mostly using local grape varieties. While not organically certified, most winegrowing uses organic principles, aided by the hot and dry conditions.
Vallone, Flaminio Ottavianello, Ostuni DOC, Puglia, Italy, 2023. 13.5%
Technical
Vallone has 3 hectares of Ottavianello at the Tenuta Castel Serranova estate. The wine is 100% Ottavianello. Harvest is in the second half of September, conducted by hand. The grapes undergo destemming at the winery , further limiting tannins. These are then fermented for 15 days at low temperature in stainless steel. Maturation is then in cement vats for three months, so the wine sees no wood. After this, bottling is under a cork closure.
Tasting
A pale ruby colour. Lovely aromatics to linger over, some lemon peel and bergamot adds a Campari-like twist to cherry and red rose petal scents. On the palate, the immediate impression is soft and welcoming, with relatively little tannin. the right amount of moderate alcohol and enough bright acidity to carry the fruit.
Predominantly red cherry and pomegranate fruit flavours with a subtle hint of grapefruit, and with no wood to get in the way. A silken texture then a slow fade and satisfying length brings you back for more, with a big smile guaranteed. Carefully and beautifully made, it’s dangerously easy to quaff this wine quickly and then open a second bottle!
Lovely balance and it could be served chilled in summer. It’s varietal character hasn’t been smothered by other grape varieties or wood. Not massively complex, but instead it maximises the fun factor.
Drink now. Then buy more. Repeat.
Food
A delightful accompaniment to classic Italian food whatever the season. Speaking of which, keep it simple: a big plate of Penne Pasta slathered with Ragù. Don’t go easy on the Parmesan. My idea of heaven.
The Wine Society £10.75
And Finally
Vallone’s Ottavianello is a terrific value wine with few peers for sheer enjoyment at this price. The Oxford Companion entry under Cinsault states that Ottavianello “produces light and unremarkable red wines”. Clearly, Vallone weren’t paying attention. meanwhile, following my own recommendation, I’ve just put another order in.
Location
Società Agricola Vallone
Via XXV Luglio, 7
73100 Lecce
Puglia
Italy
What3words Location
Notes
- Cinsault is also commonly spelt Cinsaut. It’s known for being the parent of Pinotage in South Africa. It has been a mainstay of wine producers in Morocco and Lebanon as well as southern France.
- Negro Amaro, Malvasia Nera, Notar Domenico and Susumaniello can be all added to a maximum of 15%.
- Vallone’s Graticciaia is from Negro Amaro grapes grown at their Iore estate. Those are briefly sun-dried on cane-mats called graticci. It’s one of Puglia’s (and Italy’s) greatest reds, known as the Amarone of the South.
- Belfrage, N., Brunello to Zibibbo, 2001, pp301