Poggio Valente by Fattoria Le Pupille

Poggio Valente by Fattoria Le Pupille

Poggio Valente is one of those rare wines where just one glass made me want to visit Fattoria Le Pupille to find out more. So, some years ago I did, and I’ve followed its development from afar ever since.

Given this, I can’t quite understand how I’ve not previously written about it. That’s especially as last year’s 2021 release celebrated its silver anniversary. Never mind, with this latest release (vintage 2022) being the 26th, I’m putting that right here.

Elisabetta Geppetti and Fattoria Le Pupille

Elisabetta Geppetti is the founder and owner of Fattoria Le Pupille. She was studying art history in Rome when, in 1985, she inherited some Sangiovese vineyards in the Maremma area of southernmost Tuscany. This is where Sangiovese is locally known as Morellino. This family holding was in an area where winegrowing had been going on for millennia. Yet the vineyards were historically relatively few, and the DOC wines little known beyond their locale. Up until then, the potential for ultra-premium wine growing in the Maremma had never been a consideration. Forty years later, that situation has undergone a radical transformation.

Origins

At this time, Geppetti was 20 years old, then without a formal wine education and a woman in a world still dominated by men. Yet, with support from the likes of the late, great Giacomo Tachis (whose CV included the legendary Sassicaia, Tignanello, Solaia and many others), recognition for her entrepreneurial abilities and her wines came quickly and deservedly. And that success came to the attention of other winemakers and investors. The rest, as they say, is history.

For example, guided by Tachis, Saffredi became the Maremma’s first Supertuscan in 1987 and remains a highly prized Bordeaux blend. Then there was the Morellino di Scansano Sangiovese, a driver behind the promotion of DOC to DOCG in 2006. Indeed, Geppetti, known as Signora del Morellino, is a past President of the Morellino Consorzio, which began in 1992.

Today

From small beginnings, Elisabetta Geppetti created a vinous powerhouse that now produces ten different wines, with 500,000 bottles produced annually. The Estate has gradually expanded; a fragmented mosaic of small vineyard plots, now totalling 85 hectares, is widely spread out, with 70% dedicated to Sangiovese. These plots are found amongst olives, grain, cork oaks and pasturelands, at altitudes ranging from 50 to 350 metres. While not certified, it has always been farmed organically, and it’s a member of the VIVA sustainability programme run by the Italian Ministry of the Environment and Energy Security.

These days, daughter Clara and son Ettore have joined her in running the estate and writing the next chapter.

Poggio Valente

While all the wines at le Pupille are terrific, my favourite remains Poggio Valente, first released in 1997. Scouring through my old notes reminds me that this was originally a blend of 85% Sangiovese with 15% Merlot, and was then designated a Morellino di Scansano DOC. In 2006, the Merlot content had reduced to 10% (reflecting, I think, the maximum under Morellino di Scansano Riserva DOCG).

In 2014, it became 100% Sangiovese and redesignated IGT Toscana, reflecting these stylistic changes. And though an IGT is theoretically a lesser appellation than a DOCG, that distinction is often not the case in Tuscany. In any case, there is still an excellent Morellino di Scansano DOCG in the range (which contains 10% Cabernet Sauvignon).

The word Poggio means hill, or knoll, while Valente translates as strength or courageousness. These latter qualities have often been used to describe Elisabetta Geppetti and her endeavours. She has been an inspiration to women in wine worldwide, of which there are now, rightfully, many more colleagues.

Poggio Valente was purchased in 1996. It’s a 14-hectare single vineyard, primarily of Sangiovese, with some Merlot. It enjoys a southwest exposure on a hill at Pereta, at 280-350 metres, which moderates the heat of summer, as do the breezes sweeping westward from the Mediterranean and the diurnal temperature variations. It has well-drained sandy soils, which Sangiovese loves, and some clay, which Merlot prefers.

Fattoria Le Pupille, Poggio Valente, IGT Toscana, 2022. 14.5%

Technical

This is the 26th edition of Poggio Valente. The grape harvest took place in the second half of September. Rather than pick all at once, there were three passes to ensure optimum ripeness. Fermentation was for 30 days, at 26℃ in stainless steel tanks. Maturation has been for 15 months in a mix of 500-litre and 600-litre French oak tonneaux (20% new). However, this year, this only applied to 75% of the wine. The other 25% was aged in larger 2,500-litre French oak barrels instead.

I’m unsure if this change is a one-off to optimise the particular vintage conditions, or whether it represents a more permanent move, given climate change, but I suspect the latter.  There are 38,000 bottles with cork closures. The alcohol is 14.5%, lower than the 15% of 2021.

Tasting

This young wine has ageing capacity, so decanting for at least an hour before serving helps open it up. Sangiovese is always a paler red and this is a typical ruby. Aromas are of ripe Morello cherries, plums and herbaceous macchia. Fleetingly, I caught Bergamot or loose tea. In the glass, this wine opens up further in 10-15 minutes. Initially, Morello cherry and plum show again, then violets, liquorice and pomegranate reveal themselves.

In the glass, this is a weighty wine, yet the alcohol isn’t intrusively warm or heady, but in a lovely balance with the fruit, tannins and alcohol. Those tannins leave a sensation of silky elegance, without edges. The acidity is fresh and poised. There is a long finish, with some attractive herbaceous character, including a tobacco note.

As far as oak influence or barrel work is concerned, there are no overt wood flavours to get in the way. In short, this is, as ever, a beautiful wine, which insinuates itself subtly and memorably. It’s not bold, forward or aggressive. Instead, it offers silken elegance and a sense of complete calm.

Ideally, this wine should be kept to develop more complexity and will then be at peak for ten years or more. But it’s irresistible now.

Food

The classic food matches feature roast and grilled meats of all descriptions. Poggio Valente will take all of those in its stride. However, in an article that is really about following your “own path”, let’s try a vegetarian suggestion instead. Mediterranean vegetable traybake with Halloumi is simple, has all the roasted umami flavours you could want and allows the wine to take centre stage.

UK Availability

£31.87 at Vinatis, £33.00 at Millesima and £35.99 at UK importers Armit.

And Finally

Poggio Valente is a magnificent Sangiovese, a true expression of the Maremma. And every sip still takes me back there again.

 

Location map

Fattoria Le Pupille
Piagge del Maiano, 92 A
Istia d’Ombrone
58100 Grosetto (GR)
Toscana
Italia

What3Words Location

There’s a previous article on two other excellent Fattoria Le Pupille wines here.