Port-ologist: Crafting Port Wine Cocktails – Book Review
The Port-ologist is the pen name of Dutch writer and Port-lover Ruud Scholten. He is also the founder of a website which covers Port in depth, called PRTwine.com. On February 26th this year he published a book (in English) called Crafting Port Wine Cocktails1.
This book demonstrates how Port, one of the world’s most famous wine categories, can be a key ingredient in cocktails. That might strike some as unusual, and no doubt a few dyed-in-the-wool Port traditionalists might accuse Ruud of blasphemy. However, this admirable book makes a compelling case for such innovation, with 64 remarkable Port Cocktail recipes.
But, as we shall see, there’s even more to discover in its 210 pages. Not least is that it’s a story of Port’s re-invention. Cocktails are now hugely popular, and this is a way to drink Port all-year round rather than just during the winter months. And it’s also a way of appealing to a new, younger demographic.
Print Values
In the struggling world of drinks publishing, how refreshing it is to find a book that genuinely adds to our body of drinks knowledge. While I own a number of cocktail books, between them I could only find one single recipe (for a Ruby Port Collins). The Port-ologist has, with this book, put that situation right.
Moreover, the production values used in preparing this book are outstanding, making it a pleasure to own, read and use. The Hardback uses heavy matt paper and excellent photography. The layout, type fonts and design also add to this sense of quality and ease. And while it might sound obvious, great attention has been paid to the structure of the book to facilitate reference as well as understanding. It comes complete with an excellent Glossary of Terms and Index. If you are new to Port wines, no prior knowledge is required, while there is enough information to please demanding Port lovers.
A Port Reminder
Port is not one drink. Some years ago I wrote an introductory article about Port and its many and various styles, of which there are many. The classics are of course the Vintage and Aged Tawny styles, matured for decades and so frequently rare and usually expensive. Those styles aren’t really the ingredients for cocktails. However, there are younger, simpler and fresher Port styles such as Ruby, White, Tawny and Pink, all of which make perfect cocktail ingredients. In addition, these styles are often inexpensive, readily available and often come in handy half-bottles.
This theme is explored in the opening chapters of the book, along with explanations of how different Ports are made. Some of the features that make Port ideal for cocktails then become apparent: sweetness, acidity, fruit, tannin and a more moderate level of alcohol than hard spirits. While Port is a strong fortified wine at around 20% ABV, distilled spirits are usually 40% or more. Hence, one bottle of Port can combine the roles of several cocktail ingredients, and even have a lighter final result. Clever, eh!
Tools, Techniques, Glasses and Ice
The book also covers the necessary tools and techniques needed to make cocktails, with good explanations about glassware and the importance of ice. These topics can appear daunting for the uninitiated, but again the explanations are clear and straightforward. If you’ve never shaken, stirred, strained or muddled, this book shows you how. The rest of course, is practice!
Ruud Scholten in action
Now for the main part of the book – the recipes themselves.
The Cocktail Recipes
Another strength of this book is that the cocktails are grouped into themes and styles. This makes finding and choosing a recipe (for the occasion or the season) much easier. Each recipe spans two pages, containing excellent photography and tips as well as the ingredients and method. These are divided into groups such as Classics, Fruity, Fizzy, Spicy, and Dessert. There are also award winners and seasonal specials. In turn, the sections are leavened by featuring Mixologists and their own crafting of Port Cocktails.
The mark of any good recipe book is in the result, on the plate, or, in this case, in the glass. With food, for example, you know Delia Smith’s food recipes are ultra reliable, so that brings confidence in preparation and presentation, an ingredient in its own right.
So what about these cocktail recipes? There was only one way to find out, a road test was necessary! Six examples were chosen in order to try different Port styles. Hence, the first three choices were based on the classics because of familiarity. Plus, I already had the Ports (there’s always Port at home) and the other ingredients. The final three were previously unknown. All proved to be excellent, they were:
Port Negroni
Negroni is a perennial favourite at home, so swapping out Vermouth for Tawny Port was easy and highly successful! I used Niepoort Tawny Dee (£9.95, The Fine Wine Company).
Portonic
White Port and Tonic is a great summer drink, sipped by the Port Shippers themselves. I chose Taylor’s Chip Dry White Port (£15.50 Waitrose) with Fever Tree Tonic. The perfect aperitivo on the patio!
Espresso Martawny
Probably my all-time favourite late-night cocktail, the classic Espresso Martini is featured in these pages here. Now substitute Tawny Port for Martini, using Tawny Dee from Niepoort again. Half the alcohol, so I had two.
Pink Port Sangria
Use Pink Port instead of Red wine for a lighter Sangria, with frozen raspberries instead of ice. Croft Pink Port. (£15.00 Steep Hill Wines). Went down well at the BBQ.
Porto Bay Fizz
Ruby Port and Grenadine topped with Prosecco. Niepoort Ruby Dum (£9.95, The Fine Wine Company). Easy to make aperitivo in preference to a Spritz. And I like Spritz!
Black Pepper Beauty
Ruby Port, Gin, Blackberry syrup and freshly ground black pepper, with pepper also around the glass rim. Krohn Ruby Port (£9.99, Latitude Wine, Leeds). Spicy and warming heat.
And Finally
I suspect if I’d tried any more than six recipes then this review would not have been written anytime soon. With only 58 more to go, next up will be the Dessert-like Porto Blackforest, truly a gâteau in a glass.
Meanwhile, this beautifully presented book is an essential tool for any amateur or professional mixologist. What’s more, it should also be a welcome companion for anyone with even a passing interest in Port or in making cocktails. The Port-ologist has made a valued addition to Drinks writing. It proves, once and for all, that Port is for life, not just for Christmas.
Note
- This book (First Edition) ISBN 978908362022 Hardback (€29.95). ISBN 978908362008 Kindle eBook (£8.99). Buy direct from the Port-ologist here.