Rivera – Three Stunning Puglian Wines

Rivera – Three Stunning Puglian Wines

On a recent visit to Apulia (Puglia) in Italy, I was honoured to attend the prestigious annual Radici del Sud competition, judging the wines of Southern Italy. While there, visiting the Rivera winery was a real highlight. Rivera is located in central Puglia, near Andria. Nearby is a famous local landmark, Castel del Monte. This imposing octagonal castle built in 1240 lends its name to the local DOC and three of Puglia’s four DOCG wine appellations.

Hence, this article features three stunning Rivera wines, each from a different Castel del Monte DOCG. These are Pungirosa (made from 100% Bombino Nero),  Il Falcone (a blend of 70% Nero di Troia and 30% Montepulciano), and Puer Apuliae (100% Nero di Troia).

Puglia and Castel del Monte DOC/DOCGs

It’s often thought that Puglia is low-lying, flat and hot. Well, that’s only half right. In a region 360 km long, it’s unsurprising that there are many terroirs, including hilly areas and higher altitudes. Indeed, this centre section of Puglia contains a high, wild and rocky limestone plateau (Murgia), now a National Park, where altitudes reach 600 metres asl, and it’s exposed to cold northerly winds blowing across the Adriatic from the Balkans. These ameliorating conditions bring long, slow ripening, so retaining freshness in the grapes and controlling the alcoholic potential of the wines despite enjoying some 300 sunny days annually. This differs from the low-lying coastal plain, where summer temperatures can easily exceed 40℃.

Castel del Monte, meanwhile, is a complex appellation¹. The DOC originated in 1971. Today, it covers just over 300 hectares and includes white, rosé, red, and sparkling wines (but not sweet wines) from a mix of local and international grape varieties. The most significant change was in 2011 when three small DOCGs representing the best wines were carved out from the DOC. These were Nero di Troia Riserva DOCG, with 23 hectares; Rosso Riserva DOCG, 46 hectares; and Bombino Nero DOCG, 49 hectares. We will meet all three of these below.

The Rivera Estate

In 1921, Giuseppe de Corato bought the historic Rivera estate, which grew grapes and olives. His son Sebastiano then founded the winery in the late 1940s, aiming to raise the quality and reputation of Puglian wines. The winery and vineyards were then modernised in the 1970s. Today, Carlo de Corato (3rd Generation) and his sons Sebastiano and Marco are the driving forces, modernising the winery (again in 1993 and continuously since) with the latest equipment, including solar power.

The Rivera estate comprises 75 hectares of olive trees and 85 hectares of vineyards; wine production is roughly a third white, a third rosé, and a third red and includes Método Classico sparkling wines. Many of their vineyards are at 180 – 250 metres asl, with poor, rocky limestone soils giving ideal conditions for native varieties such as Bombino Nero, Montepulciano, and Nero di Troia, all three of which feature below.

They also grow Bombino Bianco, Pampanuto, Fiano and Moscato Reale in white and Aglianico in red. Rivera also has Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay on the highest ground, at 320-350 metres. Other grape varieties such as Malvasia Nero, Negro Amaro and Primitivo are sourced from trusted Puglian growers. Hence, 25 different bottlings cover many of the main Puglian wine bases.

However, The Soul of Rivera is about the Castel del Monte appellations in general and, in particular, Nero di Troia, for which there is no finer address. Additionally, Rivera is one of the 18 wine families collaborating in the prestigious Instituto Grandi Marchi².

Sustainability

Rivera has been SQNPI accredited for sustainable viticulture since 2000. Given the large volumes produced here, it also has ISO-accredited production processes and the aforementioned solar power.

Interlude #1 – Bombino Nero

Bombino Nero is a red grape in Puglia’s Castel del Monte area. Although productive and drought resistant, it has delicate, thin skin and often ripens unevenly, producing wines of pale colour and high acidity that lack tannin. It’s the opposite of every other Puglian red in these respects! Indeed, the skins are so thin that this grape requires no pressing, such is the abundance of free-run juice. Hence it usually does not excel at making varietal red wine, and its role in the past tended to be to leaven more powerful red wines such as Negro Amaro. However, its true métier is to make superb-quality Rosé wines, where natural lightness, freshness and aromas are all essential characteristics Bombino Nero has in spades. And Rosé is back in fashion.

Bombino Nero also makes this a different proposition from other Puglian Rosés, which tend to be made by bleeding off juice from more powerful red wines. Now, here’s a pop quiz. Q: What is the only DOCG in Italy dedicated solely to Rosé wine? A: Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG holds that unique accolade. Yes, it’s at the forefront of Italy’s best Rosé wines and not what you might otherwise expect from Puglia.

Pungirosa, Castel del Monte Bombino Nero DOCG, 2023, 12%

Technical

25-30-year-old Bombino Nero vines grow high on the Murgia at 320 metres, and the grapes are harvested in early October. Skins and juice are macerated at 5℃ for 24 hours in stainless steel to retain delicate aromas. Then, the must is drained off the skins without pressing, and fermentation is in stainless steel at 18℃, taking 12-14 days. The wine is then aged in glass-lined concrete vats for a few months before bottling and release.

Tasting

Pungirosa is a joy from the first sip to the last. It’s pale pink, slightly deeper than that fashionable Provençal shade. The aromas are unexpected: parma violets, citrus, and red-berry fruit, a whiff of sage. The palate is dry, juicy red-berry fruit with a delightful silken texture and refreshing acidity. It has a good length and a slow fade. A brilliant aperitivo, it will also pair antipasti and salumi perfectly. Serve chilled, and make sure a second bottle is kept handy!  Xtrawine. £12.84.

 

Interlude #2 – Nero (Uva) di Troia

Uva di Troia is the grape variety’s “official” name, though you’ll just as often see Nero di Troia on the wine label. The names are becoming interchangeable, and Rivera, probably the most important grower of Nero di Troia, prefers to use Nero. So we’ll go with that. The origins are not completely clear. Some thought Troia referred to the Greek Troy of Antiquity; others insisted it was local to Puglia, from Troia, near Foggia. There is also some genetic evidence to suggest it may have arrived from Albania (the town of Cruja in Albania is pronounced Troia). Take your pick, though what’s certain is that the best place to grow it in Puglia is in Castel del Monte, where it remains plentiful.

Nero di Troia isn’t easy to grow—it’s late-ripening and takes a long time to ripen well, and indeed, it may need several labour-intensive vineyard passes. It’s also prone to sunburn and fungal diseases. Oh, and it’s got massive astringent tannins, can lack acidity, and doesn’t offer the potential for huge, powerful wines (long a Puglian hallmark and preference). All reasons why acreage declined.

Blend or Monovarietal?

Those tannins are undoubtedly why it was traditionally made into a blend. I’m told that the tradition was to plant one row of Montepulciano for every two rows of Nero di Troia in the same vineyard because they complement each other exceptionally well. However, since around 2000, monovarietal wines have become increasingly plentiful.  There is a small-berry biotype called Canosina, which, though low-yielding, offers better quality and more balanced grapes. At the same time, modern specialised wine-making equipment tames those tannins and preserves the fruit quality without resorting to blending. Rivera has led the way with research, the Canosina biotype and specialised equipment. They offer Nero di Troia as a traditional blend and a modern monovarietal wine.

Il Falcone, Castel del Monte Rosso Riserva DOCG. 2018, 13.5%

This traditional Riserva blend was the first wine made at Rivera in 1950 when it was called Stravecchia. It’s fair to say that this wine established Rivera’s reputation, with legendary vintages in the Fifties that still survive today. It became known as Il Falcone in 1971 when the Castel del Monte DOC was established, then Riserva DOCG when that appellation was created in 2011. Il Falcone refers to Frederick II of Swabia, builder of Castel del Monte and an enthusiastic Falconer.

Technical

This blend of 70% Nero di Troia and 30% Montepulciano (grown and fermented separately). The harvest was in late October from vineyards at 200 metres asl. After grape destemming and maceration, fermentation takes 15 days at 28℃. This features frequent pumping over using special stainless steel tanks to obtain a better extraction of aroma and colour and soften the tannins.

The wine ages in wood for 16 months, half in French oak barriques of 1st, 2nd and 3rd passage and half in French oak barrels of 3,000 litres. This refines the wine without excess wood flavour. After blending and bottling, the wine ages for at least another year before release. (Riserva rules stipulate a minimum of 2 years of ageing, one of which must be in wood).

Tasting

It’s best decanted. It’s a dense garnet colour. First comes a complex aroma with ripe cherry and redcurrant fruit notes, loose tea, and black pepper. The refined palate is full yet balanced. Tannins are smooth and not intrusive; acidity levels ensure freshness, alcohol restraint, and the complexity of flavours, with cherry and red berry fruit and black pepper. A long finish. There is nothing “rustic” here!

Longevity potential is decades –  the 1997 is drinking perfectly now, with additional leather and balsamic notes, while the 1986 remains impressively fresh and has developed an attractive button polish note. Food Pairings: Game, Roast Meats, and aged hard cheeses are all classic. Or something lighter and authentically Puglian? Try Bombette Pugliesi or Tiella di patate e funghi.

Fabulous value – one of the great wines of Puglia for £18.96 at Xtrawine.

Puer Apuliae, Castel del Monte Nero di Troia Riserva DOCG, 2017, 13.5%

 

Technical

Puer Apuliae (“Son of Puglia”) also refers to Frederick II of Swabia. This is 100% Nero di Troia using the small-berry Canosina biotype replanted in Rivera’s Tafuri vineyard at 250 metres altitude.

The harvest occurred in the third week of October. Grape destemming is before maceration and fermentation at 28℃ in specialised stainless steel tanks. This is for 18 days with frequent pumping-over and micro-oxygenation to soften tannins. After malolactic fermentation, the wine tranfers to new French oak barriques and tonneaux, where maturation takes 14 months. Bottled unfiltered, the wine ages for at least another 12 months in the bottle before release.

Tasting

Again, it’s worth decanting. Deep crimson colour, purple-flecked. Arresting aromas of violets, blackcurrants, and star anise. A little bit of orange peel. The palate has excellent density and intensity.  Blackcurrant fruit and red berries, a balance of fruit, moderate alcohol and acidity, and elegant, not angular, tannins. There’s a slow, mineral farewell, finishing dry, clean and complete.

Longevity might even be more than Il Falcone. The 2007 is drinking ideally (decanted off sediment) with some added floral (lily?) leather and balsamic notes; tannins give a smooth background, nothing aggressive. The 2004 also shows plenty left in the tank at age 20, with a lovely violet aroma.

Again, the food match is Game, Roasts, and aged hard cheeses. Or more Bombette or Tiella! Once again, it’s terrific value for such an outstanding wine: £23.88 at Xtrawine.

 

And Finally

The Rivera winery visit was followed up a few weeks later with a re-tasting of these wines with Rivera in London at the Instituto Grandi Marchi exhibition. The wines showed even better there! These are three distinctive and different wines, but there’s a house style here based on balance, elegance and “drinkability” while preserving a sense of place and varietal character. As for value, that’s hard to better. Enthusiastically recommended – I’ve bought plenty, but I’m sure there’s some left!

Location

Azienda Vinicola Rivera S.p.A.
S.P.231 Km. 60,500
76123 Andria
BT – Barletta-Andria-Trani
Puglia
Italy

What3words Location

 

Notes

1. Thanks to the Consorzio di Tutela Vini Castel del Monte DOC (Puglia Sveva), which provided information about the appellations Castel del Monte DOC/DOCGs.
2. The other Instituto Grandi Marchi members are Ambrogio e Giovanni Folonari, Antinori, Argiolas, Ca’del Bosco, Carpenè Malvoti, Col d’Orcia, Donnafugata, Jermann, Lungarotti, Masi, Mastroberadino, Michele Chiarlo, Pio Cesare, Tasca d’Almerita, Tenuta San Guido, Tenuta San Leonardo and Umani Ronchi. That’s some collection!