Ronchi di Castelluccio in Romagna

Ronchi di Castelluccio is a boutique winery at Modigliana, on the hillsides of Romagna in Italy. When the opportunity to try their flagship wines arose, no further encouragement was necessary.

This wasn’t just because of high-quality or because the wines of Romagna deserve better recognition abroad. In fact, it was a way to revisit this place through a wine glass, having previously spent a couple of weeks in this area on holiday.

First encounters

On that trip, we travelled entirely by train from the UK to visit the cultural delights of Romagna, such as Ravenna, Faenza, and Forlí. In particular, staying in Brisighella, one of Italy’s most beautiful villages, was particularly memorable. Moreover, it was at the impressive Ristorante La Grotta in Brisighella, just 10 km from Modigliana, that we first enjoyed a bottle of Ronchi di Castelluccio Sauvignon Blanc. That was all the evidence required to suggest that their top wines would be something special.

Hence, this article features four of their top wines: two white Sauvignon Blancs and two red Sangioveses. All four are single-vineyard “cru” wines. Two of these have been reestablished, profiling the first wines ever made here, while the other two are newer releases.

Before we get to them, it’s time to get a little more familiar with Romagna in general and Ronchi di Castelluccio in particular.

Romagna – a brief orientation

Modigliana location map

The main towns and cities in Emilia-Romagna are linked by the arrow-straight Roman road known as the Via Emilia. Each is located at what would have been a day’s march for a Roman Legion, and so they are all regularly spaced out and easily reached by rail and road. Travelling along it in a southeasterly direction, we leave Reggio Emilia and then Bologna behind.

On reaching the towns of Faenza and Forlí, head south. The low hills soon start to rise towards the high spine of the Apennines, with winter skiing and the border with Tuscany.

Now the vineyards of Romagna appear on the hillsides. They are in complete contrast to Emilia’s land of Lambrusco. In fact, their terroir means that Romagna’s wines are far closer in style to the wines of Central Italy.

Terroir

As is so often the case, the best wines come from hillsides, which offer the greatest potential for high-quality winegrowing. There are thinner (and poorer) soils comprising marine sediments (70% sandstone and 30% marl). Steep slopes are hard to work, yet offer better drainage and a variety of aspects and altitudes.

This results in microclimates suitable for many grape varieties, moderated by proximity to the Adriatic, just 30 km away. Summer thunderstorms are common, while humidity is lessened by altitude and winds.

Consequently, there is a mix of traditional native varieties (such as Sangiovese, Albana, Cagnina, Pagadebit and Trebbiano Romagnolo) while “international varieties” include Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. There are plenty of others, too. It has also resulted in Romagna having many appellations, whether DOCG, DOC or IGT.¹

Ronchi di Castelluccio

Ronchi di Castellucio vineyards

The Ronchi di Castelluccio winery was founded in 1974, in the Colli di Faenza at Modigliana. It was one of the first to pioneer high-quality wines in Romagna, at a time when most of Italy prioritised quantity over quality.

Later, it was sold by the founders, and then it endured a period of decline. The current owners (the Brothers Aldo and Paolo Rametta) bought it in 2000, and the restoration of the vineyards and the winery commenced. Their background was in renewable energy, and since 2016, they had owned the organic 40,000-bottle Poggio della Dogana estate, near Brisighella.

In addition, a 390-hectare organic cattle farm was added to the estate’s assets in 2023, and renewable energy generation is in development.

There are some 65,000 bottles made each vintage, comprising nine wines. 90% is sold in the Italian Ho.Re.Ca sector, with only 10% exported.

The Vineyards – Sauvignon Blanc and Sangiovese

The Ronchi vineyards are relatively high, at 300 – 400 metres, and mostly face north-northeast, so offering cooler conditions. These were literally carved out of the surrounding woodland that preserves biodiversity. Indeed, there is one hectare of vineyard for every seven hectares of trees. Broom, rowan, jujube, cherry, pomegranate and olive trees also thrive, and neither should we overlook the herd of grazing Alpacas!

Apart from a tiny patch of Cabernet Sauvignon, the vineyards have always been dedicated to low-yielding clones of Sauvignon Blanc and Sangiovese. These were chosen based on scientific research. Sauvignon Blanc was an unusual choice fifty years ago. However, this has proved fortunate, because back then the vineyard sites were too cool for the usual local candidates such as Albana and Trebbiano Romagnola.

With hindsight, all these factors have helped the winery withstand climate change while realising its quality potential. These vineyards are now full of old vines. Ronchi del Re was planted with Sauvignon Blanc in 1974 and so is over 50 years old, while others are 35-40 years old. They have been carefully restored, for example, by reverting to their original training systems.

There are also younger vineyards, which produce the entry-level wines, but even they are currently single-vineyard sites.

The Wines

Here are the four wines, two white Sauvignon Blancs and two red Sangioveses, all are single-vineyard wines, bottled under FOR 51 Corks.

Sottovento, Sauvignon Blanc, Rubicone IGP, 2022. 13.5%

Ronchi di Castelluccio Sottovento

Technical

Vineyard planted in 1989 at 390 metres, unusually facing west-southwest, so warmer. This was launched in 2020. 100% Sauvignon Blanc, using the Rubicone IGP appellation. Hand-harvest in the second week of September, spontaneous fermentation in stainless steel. Then aged for twelve months in used barriques, followed by eighteen months in the bottle.