Susumaniello by A. Mano – the Donkey of Puglia
Susumaniello is a red grape native to Puglia, grown mainly around the major southern port of Brindisi, in the heel of Italy’s boot. Like some other Italian native grapes, Susumaniello became rediscovered in the late 1990s. Modern wine-growing has enabled it to make a significant comeback in this area, with around 50 hectares currently planted.
The Donkey of Puglia
Previously, some thought that Susumaniello had arrived in Italy by crossing the Adriatic from Croatia (as had occurred with the now-famous Puglian red grape, Primitivo, which is the same as Tribidrag in Croatia).
However, subsequent DNA tests on Susumaniello have disproved this. Instead, DNA shows that the parents of Susumaniello are Garganega (the famous white grape of Soave, found in many guises throughout Italy) and a humble red table grape called Uva Sogra.
Meanwhile, the name Susumaniello is said by some to come from the local dialect word for a Donkey, “Somarello”. This variety is vigorous, especially young, so carries a heavy load like a Donkey does. Alternatively, others say it relates to stubbornness because old-fashioned Susumaniello wines are massively tannic and take time to come round.
Whatever the reason is, the A. Mano Winery makes their example in a modern style, and makes it exceptionally well, with excellent tannin management. It’s one of their “Imprint of Mark Shannon” range of wines.
Mark Shannon and A. Mano
Back in the late 1990s, the A. Mano Winery introduced many wine lovers to the joys of old-vine Primitivo. Back then, DNA testing had shown that Primitivo in Puglia was the same grape as the hugely successful Zinfandel in California. It had been taken to California by Italian Emigrants at the time of the Gold Rush.
Suddenly, Primitivo started getting international attention, at a time when Puglia’s reputation was for huge old-fashioned cooperatives and bulk winemaking. There were then relatively few independent wineries in Puglia, and bottled wines were unusual.
Suddenly, many winegrowers descended on Puglia. One of them was Canadian-born Mark Shannon, with his partner and future wife, Elvezia Sbalchiero. As they will tell you, their visit was supposed to be only a short vacation, but they never left. Instead, in 1997, they launched their winery, named A. Mano, meaning “by hand”.
A. Mano concentrated on buying the best native grapes, paying growers a higher price for quality rather than rewarding quantity. They then made, bottled and branded high-quality Puglian varietal wines such as Primitivo, exporting them to ready markets in the UK and USA.
Market success followed quickly, and A. Mano continues to champion Puglian grape varieties, making their discovery both easy and enjoyable.
Susumaniello, A. Mano, Imprint of Mark Shannon, Puglia IGP Salento, 2023. 13%
Technical
This example from A. Mano is 100% Susumaniello, the grapes from 30-40-year-old vines grown organically near Brindisi.
Those grapes then ferment in stainless steel tanks. Temperature control ensures a long, cool fermentation, where the cap of fermenting grape skins breaks gently by pumping the wine over it. That restricts the extraction of aggressive tannins in the wine from the skins and pips.
The wine then matures in stainless steel tanks, as wood ageing would add unnecessary tannin. Many Susumaniello varietal wines are now using this style, as it allows the wine to express the varietal character and be ready to drink in a few months rather than taking years. As there is no fining or filtering, it’s suitable for vegetarians and vegans. Natural cork closure.
Tasting
This example of Susumaniello is classic in colour, being an inky purple-black in the glass. There are aromas of blackberry, blueberry and violets. At 14%, the wine is broad in body and yet well-balanced. There are enough smooth tannins, plenty of cassis-like fruit, remarkable fresh acidity and a silken texture. Mediterranean herbs and a slight smokiness appear on a long finish. There’s nothing heavy or tiring here.
Food
While this is a wine that’s enjoyable on its own, it’s at its best with food. Lamb Henry, or Pork spare ribs, are an ideal match. However, if you’d like something more authentically Puglian, try Bracciole (beef rolled like a roulade and braised in a simple tomato sauce) or Tiella di patate e funghi (potato and mushroom casserole).
Stockists
As the UK importers are Liberty Wines, there’s widespread UK availability. Try VINVM, £17.30, or Valvona & Corolla, £19.50.
And finally
This Susumaniello example shows that this Puglian grape variety is up there with Puglia’s other main red grapes, be they Primitivo, Negroamaro, or Nero (Uva) di Troia. It comes highly recommended!
Location
A. Mano
Via S. Giovanni, 41
70015
Noci (BA)
Apulia
Italy
Meanwhile, if you’d like to discover more about other Puglian grape varieties, then try Nero di Troia and Bombino Nero here.