Etna terroir, the Burgundy of the Mediterranean – the Lava Lout Returns, Part 2 of 2 The Etna Terroir Part 1 of this article described how a Sicilian volcano bestows natural gifts to create the Etna terroir. But Etna isn’t one terroir; there are many variations. Welcome to the Burgundy of the Mediterranean. Etna’s volcanic soils are free-draining and low in …
Etna, or why I’m a Lava Lout – Part 1 of 2
Etna, or Why I’m a Lava Lout – Part 1 of 2 At 3,343 metres (10,968 feet), Mount Etna (Mongibello) spits, snarls and smokes. All around is ash, black as death. Above us, the summit has four active craters caked with yellow sulphur. Etna erupts almost continuously, and as we climb to 3,050 metres, it’s too dangerous to ascend further. …
Book Review: The Modern History of Italian Wine
Book Review: The Modern History of Italian Wine There has been a revolution in the quality and availability of Italian wines. It tentatively began in the ‘60s and ‘70s and continues unabated. Yet what was unclear until this book was all the reasons behind it. Their interplay led to the transformation of Italian wine. Hence, the Modern History of Italian …
Campo alle Comete, Stupore. UK Exclusive!
Campo alle Comete, Stupore. UK Exclusive! The wines of the Bolgheri region, down on the Tuscan coast, excite me in a way few others can. Bolgheri has become a magnet for wine investment, and many famous Italian wine producers have expanded into the area. Bolgheri is primarily Bordeaux-blend land, where the Reds achieve a rare intensity and Sangiovese plays only …
Recipe: Spaghetti alla Norma, a real taste of Sicily
Recipe: Spaghetti alla Norma, a real taste of Sicily A big bowl of Spaghetti alla Norma is truly the essence of Sicilian cuisine. I first ate it in Ragusa many years ago. It’s a tomato and aubergine pasta heaven that forms a regular part of my diet. Hearty and healthy, it’s so foolproof to make that even I can do …
I Veroni Chianti Rùfina Riserva – verticale
I Veroni Chianti Rùfina Riserva – verticale Chianti DOCG has seven subzones, and Chianti Rùfina (pronounced, in my best London accent, Roo-fina) is arguably the best of these. It’s a small enclave of 1,000 hectares and probably accounts for only about 3% of all Chianti production. Perhaps it’s the only Chianti subzone to rival Classico consistently in the quality of …
San Leonardo Rosso 2011 – my WOTY 2016
San Leonardo Rosso 2011 – my WOTY 2016 Gambero Rosso once described San Leonardo Rosso as one of the fifty wines that changed Italy. They have awarded their Tre Biccheri to it consistently, and it has become something of a legend in Italy. It’s from Trentino, which is a less well-known wine area. However, there are, as we shall see, some links …
Veeno, an Italian Wine Café in the UK
Veeno, an Italian Wine Café in the UK It’s not every day that you encounter a genuinely different take on Italian food and wine in Britain. That Veeno manages this admirably is down to director Nino Francesco Caruso and his business partner Andrea Zecchino. They set up their small chain of 20* restaurants in 2013, starting with Leeds and Manchester. This …
The magic of Caiarossa wines
The magic of Caiarossa wines Background Profile Caiarossa sits alone amidst unspoilt rolling hills in the Val di Cecina near the Tuscan coast. It’s a few miles north of the now-famous Bolgheri wine region. The blank canvas that was Tuscany’s coastal strip underwent a transformation a few decades ago. A slew of wineries and vineyards now occupy this previously virgin land, …
Majolini’s Ruc di Gnoc, Curtefranca Rosso
Majolini’s Ruc di Gnoc, Curtefranca Rosso I visit Franciacorta as often as I can. It’s a lovely part of Lombardy that makes Italy’s finest sparkling wine. However, I also enjoy the still red and white wines made there, called Curtefranca. Majolini’s Ruc Di Gnoc Rosso is one of the very best examples. Making red and white table wines here have …