Veeno, an Italian Wine Café in the UK
It’s not every day that you encounter a genuinely different take on Italian food and wine in Britain. That Veeno manages this admirably is down to director Nino Francesco Caruso and his business partner Andrea Zecchino. They set up their small chain of 20* restaurants in 2013, starting with Leeds and Manchester. This review is of one of the Leeds branches, but branches of Veeno are now all over the country. Expansion has been rapid as this is a franchise operation. Indeed, there are plans to expand into Ireland, Scandinavia and the Far East in the longer term.
What makes Veeno different?
Well, Veeno seeks to recreate the Italian aperitivo, but with a distinctly Sicilian twist. As a long-term fan of Sicily and its wines, this venture is right up my street. You would hope an Italian wine bar would offer excellent wines and Veeno does this particularly well. I started off with a glass of Aperol Spritz, an ideal way to peruse a menu.
Wine
The Veeno wine list is uniformly excellent, with the Sicilian reds, rosé and whites directly sourced from Caruso e Minini, Nino’s family winery near Marsala in western Sicily. Their wines regularly pick up awards from the likes of Gambero Rosso, with a whos who of Sicilian grape varieties. There is also an excellent guest list of other Italian wines and beers from other regions. There are cocktails and spirits too, should those float your boat.
Spuntini
Food-wise, Veeno offers what are known as spuntini, or appetisers. The beauty of this is that you can order different amounts easily. One is a light snack, have two for lunch, or more for a tapas-style evening meal. These are Italian charcuterie and cheeses, accompanied by the usual suspects; bread, salads, olive oil, and balsamic vinegar. Or choose from a selection of Bruschetta, Panini and Salads.
It is a credit to Veeno that these are all sourced from high-quality producers located throughout Italy. The meats are fresh and the cheeses well kept. It also means quick preparation and service to your table. While some of the selections may be unfamiliar, the friendly staff are also knowledgeable and on hand to explain.
Gran Tagliere
I chose Gran Tagliere to share, a little of everything. It came presented on a wooden platter and was generous enough as a main meal for two. It comprised six different kinds of Italian cheese and six different portions of Italian charcuterie. Naturally, this came with Caruso e Minini olive oil, Balsamic vinegar, olives from Liguria and plenty of crusty bread.
During the evening I tried various glasses of Sicilian wines. Dry white Grillo and Zibbibo (Muscat) went with the cheeses. For the meats, I chose dry reds; Perricone and a Frappato/Nerello Mascalese blend. All were of excellent quality, hugely enjoyable and perfect food partners. However, my pick would be the Perricone, called Sachia, an unoaked and rare example of a monovarietal wine made with this relatively rare grape.
As desserts are also available, I found room for my favourite Affogato, vanilla ice cream drenched in espresso. A glass of sweet late-harvest Grillo finished things off.
Price-wise, Veeno doesn’t break the bank and offers real value. The wines are also available for takeaway and naturally, I bought a couple of bottles to enjoy later. As well as the menu, Veeno also offers Italian Afternoon Tea and Wine Tastings too.
On this freezing December night, an evening bathed in warm Sicilian hospitality had obvious appeal. Afterwards, I asked myself “why hasn’t this been done before?”
Location
Veeno
7 Duncan Street
Leeds
LS1 6DQ
UK
*Updated August 2018 as there are now 20 Branches.
Prefer a Pizza? try Franco Manca