VentiVenti – The Razzaboni family’s 2020 Vision
VentiVenti is a young start-up venture producing exceptional organic Lambrusco and other wines, particularly through the use of the Metodo Classico method. VentiVenti (2020) is named after the year it was founded. However, the name applies just as aptly to the shared vision of the Razzaboni family, namely Vittorio and his sons Riccardo, Andrea, and Tommaso. After all, 2020 vision is about acuity, which is the ability to see even the smallest details with precision.
Origins
It all began in 2014 with the acquisition of 70 hectares of land that had previously been farmed for cereals. 34 hectares of it are now under vine. Being part of the Pianura Padana, all the land here near Modena is flat, with alluvial soils containing 40% clay, 53% silt, and 7% sand. It also meant that VentiVenti could be an organic farm from the outset, as sustainability is a key ingredient in the VentiVenti vision.
The first vineyard was planted in 2016, and the first harvest was processed in the new winery in 2018, with the first wine release in 2020. While new ventures are always risky, 2020 wasn’t the easiest time to start, thanks to the COVID pandemic.
As for grape varieties, there are the native varieties: Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Salamino, and Ancellotta in red, plus Pignoletto in white. There are also international varieties, such as Pinot Blanc, Chardonnay, and Cabernet Sauvignon. The solar-powered winery is situated in the heart of the vineyards, offering a blend of hospitality, events, and winemaking facilities. There are 70,000 bottles produced each year, with an eventual capacity target of 150,000 per annum.
Before we dive into three Lambrusco wines from VentiVenti, let’s first remind ourselves about Lambrusco as a category. It was often derided in the past, but huge quality improvements have been made over the last 10-15 years to restore its tarnished reputation. Indeed, Lambrusco comes in many forms, with numerous DOCs.
Lambrusco
Here’s the cliché – an industrial product
According to cliché, Lambrusco is red, made from a blend of grapes, is sweet, fizzy, tastes of cheap carbonated pop and is an industrial mass product made in huge volumes – the essence of McWine. That’s the legacy left from the twentieth century. And, sadly, you can still find examples, if you’ve a mind (or not).
Here’s the reality – a whole universe of joy
Lambrusco is, first and foremost, a family of a dozen closely related red grape varieties native to Emilia-Romagna, found particularly around the city of Modena.1 The three main varieties encountered are all distinctive and capable of making excellent wines, either as blends or as monovarietal wines. These are Lambrusco di Sorbara, Lambrusco Salamino, and Lambrusco Grasparossa. Furthermore, they are all ancient varieties with long histories of cultivation. There are a further nine other related Lambrusco varieties, of varying quality and rarity.2
The Lambrusco wines also come in dry, off-dry and sweet styles, and they can be many shades of red, rosé, and can even be vinified white. They are frequently made as spumante, sometimes frizzante, and sometimes without bubbles at all (fermo or tranquilo). Meanwhile, sparkling styles can be produced using the Ancestrale or Marinotti/Charmat methods, as well as the Metodo Classico method, which involves extended ageing. Then there are distinctive and delightful aromas and flavours to be had. And, just to add complication, there is no single Lambrusco DOC – there are six in Emilia-Romagna, 3 let alone a host of IGTs. And quality Lambrusco is made by artisans, where, as so often, the key to quality is keeping yields low.
Indeed, if there are better matches for the rich meat and dairy cuisine of Emilia-Romagna, then I haven’t met them. Not for nothing are the cities of Piacenza, Parma, Reggio, Modena and Bologna known as the trip of Good Taste (Il Viaggio Nel Buon Gusto). And Lambrusco really is one of the greatest food-friendly wines. Hence, the wines featured here were all paired with food, ensuring they were chilled beforehand.
Three Lambrusco Wines
La Vie
La Vie, Lambrusco di Modena DOC, Spumante Brut. 2024. 10%
Technical
Lambrusco Sorbara 100%. Fermentation of two separate parcels in stainless steel, blending, then the Charmat Lungo method for creating bubbles, for a lengthy 90-120 days, with lees stirring. Isobaric bottling retains the gas pressure from fermentation without loss, resulting in a Spumante-style wine. Minimal sulphites. 12,000 bottles pa.
Tasting
This is the lightest red, indicating Lambrusco Sorbara, with some purple flecks and a huge, lively frothing mousse. Big strawberry and violet aromas and cherry flavours. This has a rich, creamy mid-palate, fresh acidity, moderate alcohol and a slow fade to a mineral dryness. Brut, but could be Extra-Brut given the low residual sugar.
Food
A great match for Cabbage rolls stuffed with rice and ragù. Or try Cotecchino di Modena as a classic match.
UK Availability
Grape & Grind £19.75
Rouge de Noirs
Rouge de Noirs, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce DOC, Spumante Brut. 2020. 12%
Technical
100% Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce. Mechanical harvest in cool early morning, then further cooling of grapes at the winery. Tannin management: 20% of the wine has skin contact, while 80% is made without it. Fermentation in stainless steel creates the base wines, and then the Metodo Classico method is used to produce the Spumante, which undergoes 30 months of ageing on the lees. 2g/l residual sugar, 8 g/l acidity. Minimal sulphites. 10,000 bottles pa.
Tasting
Lambrusco Salamino, intense purple flecked with crimson. Energetic yet persistent white mousse followed by full-on red berries, particularly cranberries and red cherries. A hint of roses. Brut style, so dry, but could be an Extra-Brut. There is some tannin on the palate that lingers on the finish, binding with the fruit and fresh acidity, which brings a sense of wildness and is also a useful property for meat-based dishes.
Food
Just perfect, served with an organic beef burger in a crisp sourdough bun and accompanied by homemade zucchini relish. Grilled veg skewers too.
UK Availability
Grape & Grind £23.00
VentiVenti Rosé
Rosé, Lambrusco Rosato di Modena DOC, Spumante Brut. 2020. 12%
Technical
100% Lambrusco Sorbara. Fermented in stainless steel tanks to create the base wines, then using the Metodo Classico method for a Spumante with 30 months of ageing on the lees. No filtering or clarification. Clear bottle. Just 2 g/l of residual sugar, 6 g/l acidity. Minimal sulphites. 20,000 bottles pa.
Tasting
This is the flagship wine, and a real ringer for a Rosé Champagne, a world-class wine. First, a pretty, onion skin colour. Then there’s a fine bead bubble stream, with raspberry and violet scents and a hint of yeast autolysis on the nose. Starts creamily, then the acidity shows. Again, very low residual sugar, so could be Extra-Brut. Nicely balanced and yet with plenty of power and a long, clean mineral finish. Elegance personified.
Food
In this case, a salade tiède with salmon, capers and croutons, livened up with a pinch or two of Za’atar. Or pair with cured meats, such as Prosciutto, Mortadella and Culatello. Further afield, how about Tuna Nigiri Sushi/Sashimi?
UK Availability
Grape & Grind £25.00
UK Availability
All three wines are available in the UK, which is one of VentiVenti’s first export markets. The UK importers are Spiegel & Peach, in Bristol, also established in 2020!
And Finally
For me, the highlight is the Metodo Classico Rosé, which ably demonstrates that Lambrusco can be a very serious wine proposition. Meanwhile, for super-fruit fun and gastromic indulgence, the other two are joyous. All three wines are excellent examples in their categories, and brought back happy memories of wine judging at Enologia in Bologna.
As for a 2020 Vision – there’s certainly much more to come from VentiVenti, who are proving that modern winemaking can also respect the environment and tradition. As with many wine areas, the producer’s name is the best guide to quality, and VentiVenti sits at the top table with the best Emilia-Romagna producers. My thanks to Riccardo Razzaboni for sharing these wines with me, and also to Madeline Andrews of Spiegel & Peach for providing the availability details.
Location
Cantina VentiVenti
Società Agricola Il Borghetto di Razzaboni
Via della Saliceta, 15
Strada Provinciale 5
41036 Medolla
Modena
Emilia-Romagna
Italy
What3words Location
Notes
- There are other Lambrusco grape varieties in different parts of Italy. Most are not genetically related and need not detain us here.
- These are: Pellegrino, Beretti, Viadanese, Oliva, Montericco, Marani, Maestri, Barghi, and Foglia Frastagliata.
- The six Lambrusco DOCs in Emilia-Romagna are: Lambrusco Grasparossa di Castelvetro DOC, Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce DOC, Lambrusco di Sorbara DOC, Colli Scandiano e di Canossa DOC, Modena DOC and Reggiano DOC. Fortunately, there is only one Consorzio that covers them all, with 70 producers, 16,600 hectares, and 57 million bottles produced annually. (For completeness, Lambrusco Mantovano is the other DOC with Lambrusco in its name, but that is in Lombardy, bordering Emilia-Romagna.)