Verdeca – Time for a Renaissance
Once upon a time, Verdeca was widely planted in Puglia, its homeland. If Puglia is the boot of Italy, then we are far down at its heel. Verdeca is an autochthonous white grape variety that grows mainly in the central provinces of Bari and Taranto but also further south in Brindisi and Lecce1. Unfortunately, Verdeca is down at heel in other respects, too. It’s the victim of a long decline, principally because most of its vigorous and voluminous production was inextricably linked to making Vermouth.
The Vermouth Connection
Vermouth is an aromatised fortified wine of ancient origins using botanicals, particularly wormwood. However, it was popularised in white and red versions by companies such as Cinzano, Martini & Rossi and Noilly Prat in the 18th and 19th centuries2. During this time, it experienced colossal growth, sipped as an apéritif in bars and cafés worldwide. That meant a massive demand for cheap neutral base wines, and Verdeca bulk wine from Puglia became a significant source.
Then, after World War Two, fashions changed abruptly, and consumer demand for Vermouth plummeted in favour of lighter and fresher drinks. Vermouth producers either closed, diversified into other beverages or sourced even cheaper base material, leaving Verdeca in a market that shrank almost to nothing.
Decline and Fall
While Vermouth has become more prevalent recently through fashionable cocktail culture and mixology, that market is far more artisanal and quality-orientated, and the demand for base wines is far smaller. For Verdeca, that ship sailed years ago. In 1970, there were still some 8,000 hectares of Verdeca in Puglia, yet by the Millennium, this had shrunk to 2,265 hectares. Now, there are only 635 hectares.
It’s a sorry tale when International white varieties of repute, such as Chardonnay (with 1,000 ha), are now more widespread in Puglia. At the same time, Verdeca’s replacement was principally with Puglia’s great red wine commercial successes, such as Primitivo and Negro Amaro, and you can hardly blame winegrowers for wanting to increase their income. Indeed, red grapes now account for two-thirds of Puglian production.
Verdeca is an authorised blending component in small Puglian DOCs such as Martina Franca, Locorotondo, and Terra d’Otranto. Only in the wonderfully titled Colline Joniche Tarantine DOC can it ever appear as a single variety. Instead, single-variety Verdeca is usually an IGP. With only 7% of all Puglian wine being DOC anyway, a designation as IGP Puglia is no disgrace and will attract more name recognition.
Rock Bottom
In 2001, Nicholas Belfrage3 wrote about Verdeca that “the origins of the grape are unknown, possibly because no one can be bothered to enquire”. And he swiftly followed that up with “the interesting white wines (in Puglia) are all being produced from French grapes or grapes associated with other Italian regions.”
But here’s an interesting fact. Recent DNA profiling by someone bothered shows that Verdeca has no Italian relatives. It turns out that Verdeca is the same grape as a Greek variety, Lagorthi. Now Lagorthi is in Greece’s Peloponnese and Ionian islands and is super-rare, but conversely, it enjoys a stellar reputation there! That hints at Verdeca’s potential.
Rediscovery
While visiting Puglia, I repeatedly tasted several single-variety Verdeca dry white wines. Unexpectedly, all were good wines, and a couple were outstanding, completely confounding this sorry historical tale. Back in the UK, I returned to the organic example from Integro, which sits alongside their Primitivo and Negro Amaro bottlings (and jolly good those are as well). Integro made this wine for the first time in 2022, and I previously recommended it for Christmas 2023. The 2023 vintage that features here is even better.
Integro / The Wine People
Integro is a brand of The Wine People. This business was founded by Stefano Girelli and Peter Kosten in 2009. Although headquartered in Trentino, in Northern Italy, their winemakers make wine in five different Italian regions. Consequently, their portfolio comprises various authentic Italian wines sold under multiple brands. The Wine People are also market-driven experts in packaging and logistics, exporting to 35 countries. Additionally, all their wines are organic and certified by Equalitas, which covers supply chain sustainability, business aspects, and wine growing.
The Wine
Verdeca – Integro
Integro, Verdeca, IGP Puglia, Italy. 2023. 12.5%
Technical
100% Verdeca, organically grown on limestone hillsides at San Donaci in Brindisi province. The harvest is by hand during the first two weeks of August in the early morning, before the day’s heat. After destemming and gentle pressing, a cool fermentation in stainless steel. There is no malolactic fermentation, and the new young wine is bottled with a cork closure and an attractive label. There’s no oak influence, as that would only mask the varietal fruit flavours and aromas. Being vegan-friendly, the winemaking is without any animal products.
Tasting
In the glass, a pale yellow with light green flecks, clean and inviting. There are gentle aromas of green apple and green herbs. On the palate, the first flavour is of green apple, followed by something more tropical, such as mango and pineapple. Those latter fruits might suggest overripeness or blowsiness, but this wine is moderate in alcohol, with plenty of fresh, zippy acidity. The balance of components offers excellent harmony. A satisfyingly dry finish then reprises those green herbs, accompanied by a little flinty minerality. It demonstrates that Verdeca can have a real personality with careful winegrowing. It’s not a wine for long keeping, but there’s no rush to drink it.
Food
There are plenty of excellent simple Mediterranean food pairings with this wine. As an aperitivo, try it with Focaccia. For starters, Burrata cheese works well. Seafood choices include prawns, clams and mussels. Plant-based? Try summer salads, grilled vegetables such as courgette (zucchini), or peppers. Sardines, tuna, or swordfish are top fish selections.
UK availability.
Booths, £10.50 (frequently on promotion at a lower price). Quaff, £11.99. The UK importers are North South Wines, who are B Corp certified.
And Finally
Red grape varieties dominate Puglia, but it’s high time Puglia had an autochthonous white grape to match. Verdeca has that potential, and its renaissance is overdue.
Meanwhile, Integro’s Verdeca is superb value and as excellent as any I’ve encountered so far (and I’ve made it my business to find as many as I can). It comes highly recommended – bring on the 2024!
Location
The Wine People S.r.l.
Via Maestri del Lavoro, 28
38121 Trento (TN)
Italy
What3words Location
Notes
- Verdeca can also be a minor component in the Lacryma Christi wines of Vesuvio DOC, near Napoli in Campania. Given that that is around a three-hour coast-to-coast drive from Bari, I find that curious.
- I’m indebted to The Aperitif Companion by Andrew Jones for background information about Vermouth.
- Belfrage, N. Brunello to Zibibbo.
Are you interested in rare or lesser-known grape varieties? Why not take a look here?
Moreover, we’ve met The Wine People on these pages before. See here.