The Premium Gin Renaissance, Part 2 of 2: Gin Reviews
Part 1 covered the history and renaissance of Premium Gin. Now for the Gin reviews.
Gin says something about you.
Premium Gin is about three elements that should combine to create a great and memorable drink. The botanical ingredients, painstaking artisanal production, and an exquisite presentation because the style is crucial for maximum enjoyment.
Spirits and cocktails always say something about you, so make sure they say something flattering. All these examples are readily available. I’ve tried to go for contrasts in style rather than pick the “best”. What suits me might not suit you. I’ve tabulated the Gin reviews at the end.
Versatility
Gin is so versatile for mixologists. Hence all were served blind in three ways: first, drunk neat over ice to explore its character. Second, mixed with tonic as a classic G&T. Finally as a Dry Martini, stirred, not shaken, with a hint of vermouth and obligatory olive. Mathematicians will spot this means 21 different drinks, so this wasn’t activity to rush!
Quality mixers are also essential. Mass-market brands of tonic water are gloopy sweet, either from sugar or aspartame, drowning out any subtlety. I used Fever Tree throughout; you could also try Fentimans or Q.
For the vermouth needed for the Dry Martini, I waved a bottle of Noilly Prat around, which did the trick. Alternatively, use Martini & Rossi or Boissiere.
The ratio of gin to mixers was kept constant, with all drinks served in identical glasses.
Gin Reviews, #1: Blackwood’s Vintage Dry Gin 2012. 40% abv
Blackwoods is my house gin at BD Mansions. It comes in an apothecary-like bottle with a stopper, emphasising the Scottish island of Shetland. However, distillation has now moved over to the mainland since Blavod took over the brand. It uses sustainable hand-harvested botanicals from the Shetland sea cliffs, all gathered in one year. Hence, the vintage stated is really about the botanical character of one year, not ageing. These include bog-myrtle, wild water mint, sea pink, meadow-sweet, angelica root, cinnamon, liquorice, coriander, citrus peel, orris, violets and turmeric.
Taken neat, this is a bright, medium-bodied spirit with explosive citrus and herbaceous notes and a floral nose. Individualistic and elegant, good smooth texture and relatively subdued juniper. Splendid as a G&T; crisp, subtle and satisfying, light and refreshing. It has an ethereal quality that is slightly less successful when presented as a Dry Martini. I prefer something more muscular.
£25.00, Majestic
Gin Reviews, #2. Brecon Special Reserve Gin, abv 40%
A Gin from the Penderyn Welsh Whisky Distillery in the Brecon Beacons National Park. Plain yet stylish packaging in a tall clear bottle suggests purity. It features local Brecon spring water and widely sourced botanicals; orange peel, cassia bark, liquorice root, cinnamon bark, angelica root, nutmeg, coriander seeds, lemon peel and orris root are listed.
On the rocks, juniper is much more prominent, alongside scented lemons. On the palate, orange notes reveal quickly before woody undertones and a hint of sweetness. It’s a revelation as an excellent G&T, which draws out the cinnamon and nutmeg against a steely background. Distiller Gillian Macdonald has created a unique spirit. It’s too sweet for the ultimate Dry Martini but ideal as classic G&T.
£18.00, Waitrose
Gin Reviews, #3. Saffron Gin, Gabriel Boudier, Dijon, France. 40% abv
Made in Dijon by an independent Cassis maker. Unusually, it features hyper-expensive saffron as a primary botanical. This expensive proposition will polarise Gin drinkers. For a start, it is an orange-amber colour, imparted by the saffron, not by the colour of the bottle.
As an aside, I can recall how disappointed I was when I found Bombay Sapphire wasn’t blue. But that’s another story.
Saffron was launched on an unsuspecting world in 2006 based on an ancient recipe. Other botanicals stated on the bottle include coriander, lemon, orange, angelica seeds, fennel, and iris.
Drunk neat, this is all orange bitters. So much so I thought it could be Cointreau, although fennel and citrus do finally appear. Unctuous and very sweet, reminiscent of the Old Tom style. I didn’t expect it to work as a G&T, but the tonic seemed to open it up and reduce the orange flavour. I can’t recommend it for a Dry Martini, though it clashed with the vermouth because it is sweet and orange flavoured. It’s Gin, Jim. But not as we know it. Purists will avoid, though mixologists with sweet cocktails may deliver more favourable results. It’s certainly different! Try before you buy.
£28.99, Master of Malt
Gin Reviews, #4. Berry Brothers and Rudd, No. 3 London Dry Gin. 46% abv
Named for their legendary abode in St. James in London, BBR No.3 wears its 300-year-old tradition proudly. It’s a thoroughly London Dry style, though made in ancient copper stills in Holland. The green bottle sums it up. Tradition meets style, a door key motif and 1698 proudly proclaimed. There are relatively few botanicals admitted. Whether there are more than orange and grapefruit peels, angelica root, coriander and cardamom are unknown.
This gin does live up to classic status, and that higher alcohol level helps. Neat, there is the expected juniper background, but there are subtlety and complexity galore. It’s a smooth and dense mouthful; it never cloys, being very dry and with a citric kick on a long fade—gin to sip slowly and in contemplation. As a G&T, it is very satisfying and classic; the tonic brings out the cardamom. Best though in a Dry Martini, a perfect marriage of texture and bitter flavour. James Bond would drink this. “Do you expect me to talk? No, Mr Bond, I expect you to die!” Worth every penny. My new favourite.
£34.80, Waitrose
Gin Reviews, #5, Martin Miller’s Imported Dry Gin, 40% abv
Martin Miller’s was established only in 1999. He wanted to create a modern classic fine gin from scratch with the best ingredients. Made In batches from an old copper still called Angela, this gin distils at Langley, near Birmingham. The heads and tails from distilling become discarded in a similar way to whisky. Hence it uses only the heart of the distillation. It’s a London Dry style, with Florentine iris, cassia bark, liquorice root, citrus peels and coriander. The unique point is the clarity offered by the water used. It’s imported from Iceland, as the angular bottle proudly proclaims.
On its own, it is ice-clear and smells very clean, almost green. That made me wonder if there was cucumber included in the botanicals (I checked afterwards, and yes, there is). The palate is dry, soft and rooty rather than floral or fruity. It isn’t going for complexity, rather purity, which makes it an ideal mixologist companion. As a G&T, there is natural lift and crispness, with a slightly smoky edge, making it refreshing, as it should be. As a Dry Martini, it majors on elegance and a classic piercing finish. Easy to recommend textbook gin. PS, pour it over lemon sorbet for a highly alcoholic dessert.
£26.50, Waitrose
Gin Reviews, #6. Bloom, Premium London Dry Gin, abv 40%
Bloom is a gin made in the London Dry style by Greenall’s in Warrington, one of England’s biggest distilleries. It’s a relative newcomer on the scene. It comes in a delicate cork-stoppered pale-green bottle covered in complex tracery. Visually it suggests the Bloomsbury set, with Virginia Woolf and Vita Sackville-West gently gliding around the gardens at Sissinghurst.
Fanciful? This gin certainly majors on the floral and is perfumed. It is delicate and filigreed. Drunk neat, it is wafting and delicate. There is a cast list of unusual botanicals, including chamomile, pomelo (Chinese grapefruit), and honeysuckle. Soft and with a slightly sweet edge, the juniper is hardly noticeable, and I enjoyed it most neat. As a G&T, it offers a lightweight summery drink redolent of rosewater and white flowers, but I seemed to need a higher gin to tonic ratio than with some others. As a Dry Martini, it lacks punch and is overly polite. Nevertheless, distiller Joanne Moore certainly has created something distinctive. Perhaps a little too mannered, though, it should make plenty of new friends that are not traditional gin drinkers.
£20.00, Waitrose
Gin Reviews, #7. Tanqueray, No. TEN gin, 47.3% abv
Charles Tanqueray founded this authentic Bloomsbury Distillery in 1830. However, after destruction during the second world war, the company moved to Scotland. Tanqueray launched this gun in 2000, named after a still called Tiny Ten. There are no botanicals stated on the super-elegant green bottle. However, it’s a super-smooth high-strength Gin that majors in citrus and juniper.
Drunk neat, it is a full-on grapefruit fest, really tangy, smooth but with balance and a viscous texture. Adding tonic brings out floral notes and subdues the juniper, creating a deliciously full-bodied G&T that majors on citrus freshness and chamomile. It turns out that Tanqueray uses fresh whole citrus fruits rather than peels, with grapefruit, orange, lime and chamomile in the mix. It’s versatile but shines best as a Dry Martini. It has a hefty character, a moreish, almost salty tang and a long dry bitter finish. Subsequently adopted by several hip-hop stars, this is a high bling gin and none the worse for it.
£32.00, Waitrose
Summary and conclusions
Blackwood’s Vintage | Brecon Special Reserve | Saffron | BBR No.3 | Martin Miller’s | Bloom | Tanqueray No.TEN | |
ABV % | 40.0 | 40 | 40 | 46.0 | 40 | 40 | 47.3 |
Origin | Scotland | Wales | France | Holland | England | England | Scotland |
Unique Point | Shetland Botanicals | A taste of Wales | Saffron | Tradition | Icelandic water | Femininity | Bling |
Botanicals | Bog Myrtle, Wild Water Mint, Angelica Root, Cinnamon, Liquorice, Sea Pink, Meadow Sweet, Coriander, Citrus Peel, Orris, Violets, Turmeric | Orange Peel, Cassia bark, Liquorice Root, Cinnamon Bark, Angelica Root, Nutmeg, Coriander Seeds, Lemon Peel, Orris Root | Saffron, Coriander, Lemon, Orange, Angelica Seeds, Fennel, Iris, | Orange & Grapefruit Peels, Angelica Root, Coriander, Cardamom | Florentine Iris, Cassia Bark, Liquorice Root, Citrus Peels, Coriander, Cucumber | Chamomile, Pomelo, Honeysuckle | Mostly Undisclosed. Whole Citrus Fruits, Chamomile |
Versatility | ★★★ | ★★★★ | ★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★ | ★★★★★ |
Overall rating | ★★★★ | ★★★★ | ★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★ | ★★★ | ★★★★ |
Typical Price | £25.00 | £18.00 | £32.99 | £34.80 | £26.50 | £20.00 | £32.00 |
All these are well worth your attention, and there are many others I would willingly add to this list. The obvious omissions from this lineup include the superb Hendricks, Bombay Sapphire, and those Gins made in France by G’Vine.
Your choice will come down to a matter of taste, personality and how you prefer to drink it. Some are more versatile than others. Of course, your budget plays a part too because the price differences here are significant, with the most expensive twice the lowest price.
Why not try these out in bars before committing to a whole bottle?
What this comparative tasting reveals is that there’s a whole world of exciting flavours to explore in premium gin.
Do let me know your thoughts; I’m always looking out for discoveries. Do you agree with me? Let me know!
If you’d like to discover more gin, why not take a look at this new book?